Thursday 30 August 2007

The Last Post

Photos first and then a looooong discourse (which is worth reading I might add.

Click here to open the portfolio from Arthur.

Click here to open the portfolio from Mark.

Hi Everyone,
The following is a distillation of a long list of topics which might be of interest to you. The topics covered include, why people walk the Camino, some the people who most influenced my Camino, a brief description of the route and our daily routine. I end with a few comments on the return to the "real" world. There is a lot to read and a lot more to say but we all have lives to live hence I have reduced it to a minimum, ie as in minimum for a long winded person such as I.

Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to read the blog and make comments. It really did help to know that your were looking out for us.

Thanks also for your generous contributions to the Mercy Ships charity, £1300, and rising. Hopefully Mercy Ships will spend it on dental equipment and hence allow my pal Norton (his mother was a Hell’s Angel) to continue his charity dentisting in West Africa at the New Year.

Why Walk the Camino
When I came home I started reading a book I had planned to take with me but left it (along with another 750gm of books) due to weight restrictions. The book is entitled “Soulsong” by Thomas Forsthoefel and examines the lives of saints in different religions. The aim of the book is to expose the “song in the soul” which made them what they were and to provide parallels for our own lives.

The author proposes that the saints had asked basic human questions, eg “what it means to be human” and during the course of their lives had “walked into the answers”. This was a very apposite time to be reading this book. It has helped me to realise that, in the main, the people on the road to Santiago are asking some of the same questions and all hoping to literally “walk into the answers”.

I found that we were all, more or less, looking for answers to the same questions. Some answers come very quickly when listening to other people talk about their reasons for taking on this task, others appear out of nowhere and answer questions that were not even being asked and some are still out there waiting to be found. For some there is of course the danger that the answers may be too much to bear.

I am sure a lot of the “awakenings” are products of the stress on our bodies and mental resources, eg finding the inner capacity to cover the last 5km of the 40km day. However I am equally convinced that we needed to be open to the questions about our existence and how we impact on your fellow human being to allow the physical endeavour to play its part.

I am conscious that this may all sound a bit “new age” but it is far from it. The great majority of people we met where pretty straight forward individuals and we would all easily recognise them as the people who live beside us and with whom we work. What they are doing, by walking over 770km in 4-5 weeks, is giving themselves the chance to review their lives and find ways of making it better, for themselves, for those they love and for those with whom they come in contact.

Would I do it again? Possibly but I would have to change the way I did it. I have formulated a wee three week scenario which involves covering the 770km but only walking the first 100km and the last 200km. The Meseta, between Burgos and Leon, I could do without. It is an experience worth having but once only.

Would I recommend that you do it? No! It is too tough a gig to actually encourage people to do it. Happy to talk about it, advise about it, make recommendations about how it can be done but it is not something to be taken lightly. Mark and I had lots of planning, or we thought we had, but I have in front of me a 2 metre long map of the route and for the first time since we started planning this adventure, I have a realistic idea of just how long 770km is. It is a long way.

Was it worth it? Yes, and very much so. I had a great experience, met lots of wonderful people (both fellow pilgrims and those who provide the services that support our passing), saw some outstanding country and visited churches, cathedrals and castles that told me I was walking through history.

As to new approaches to my daily life, only time and those around me will be able to tell if it has been worth it. I think it has been but then I have to, don’t I.

People
I could be here all day listing all the kind people who helped make the road to Santiago so worthwhile but I will restrict myself to mentioning only four.

First and foremost is Mark without whom I would probably never have gone in the first place and who helped make the trip memorable for all sorts of happy reasons. It was a gas, dude.

Next is Colin Brow at the University of Paisley. Colin's physiotherapy skills made sure that I was in a fit state to at least tackle the walk. Without Colin getting my knee, foot and latterly my acute back problem sorted, I would not have been able to start the walk. Sorry to say it Colin but I am bringing back more work for you.

Next is Daniel Bullet from Tarbes. I think I spent less than 48 hours in Daniel’s company but by observing his serene approach to the Camino he passed on lessons that sustained me for the rest of the trip.

Last but not least is Greg Byrne. Greg, Mark and I spent the best part of two weeks walking together and it is fair to say that we did not stop talking and laughing for the whole two weeks. Possibly not a lot of inner reflection going on during that period but Greg’s company made life so much better especially when I was grumping about my useless leg (and boy, can I grump).

To all others, especially our two Italian counts, I wish to express my heartfelt thanks for your company, your support and your kindnesses along the way.

One last point which only struck me in the last days of the trip.

You may remember the wee “queuing incident” that took place when we went for our "free breakfast" at the Parador and the reaction to Senor 11. In reflecting on this incident later, I realised that the “us” of whom I felt such a part were by and large composed of the same type of people. We were all educated, articulate and although of different religions and none we were already part of an existing tribe, ie the middle class.

We all had (or once had) similar professions, eg teachers, technical professionals, lecturers, lawyers, business executives. There were a fair number of newly graduated students but again the classification was easily marked middle class.

We were not rich (with the possible exception of Oscar) but we were by no means on our uppers or worried about getting a meal at the end of the day. Many people were on tighter budgets, eg they bought and cooked their evening meal, but I never came across anyone, other than the two Camino tramps, who was actually worried about paying £4.50 for a place to sleep or pay £5 for a three course peregrino menu meal.

Aside: Ask Mark about how much he loved the peregrine menu meal.

I once flippantly said to Greg, as we were sipping beer at 2.30 in the afternoon at Molenaseca, “Tough old life eh! Wonder what the poor people are doing?” Well after the Parador incident I did wonder what the poor people were doing and how they resolved their life issues.

For example, how do the “poor people” deal with “what it means to be human”? They certainly aren’t “walking into the answers” on the Camino because they can’t afford to. Where does the money come from to buy all the support gear, get to the start of the Camino (air/train/bus) plus sustain life and limb for 4 or 5 weeks. I don’t see the Social coming up with that type of money to help a housing benefit claimant “find themselves”.

Has the Camino now become a middle class preserve? A question for the Confraternity of St. James to ponder perhaps.

The Route
The route begins with the trek over the mountain from France into Spain. It is pretty demanding and would possibly be better done in two stages. Either way you are rewarded by views of the Pyrennes that are stunning. Most of the upward section is on or alongside a country road. Seems bad but it is OK. The downward section to Roncevalles is through wooded lanes which are very typical of those we see at home. This woodland terrain goes all the way to the outskirts of Pamplona (with notable exceptions for about 10km just after Zubiri).

Pamplona is the first big town and would be worth at least a day spent being the tourist. I had been there a few times whilst working on a European project with Ewan MacArthur, Chris Irgens and Lesley Walls so I did not dally for long, just enough time to send home some belongings to reduce the pack weight. Boy did that feel good.

The section between Pamplona and Burgos is mostly farmland with valley after valley after valley of wheat fields. It is simply huge. I had read that Spain had been the breadbasket for Rome and after walking through this area I can well believe that to be the case. We are not about to run out of Weetabix in the near future.

Between Pamplona and Burgos there is one large town, Logrono with a superb cathedral (and three other churches of similar note), and a number of small towns such as Puente la Reina, Estelle and Santa Domingo de Calzada which are worth seeing. The small towns are similar in structure with narrow streets, lovely houses, big churches. You get the impression that time has stood still for a long time but the shops, though small, are modern enough to give a lie to that impression. However the economy of these towns depends a lot on the pennies spent by the pereginos.

At least the town of Santa Domingo made a few pennies out of Mark and I that night as we teamed up again. Pizzas and beer and then some more. Very Spanish? Possibly not but we were celebrating and even by that time (one week in) Mark had had about enough of the peregrino menus to last him a lifetime.

Burgos is a big place, full of ancient and medieval structures, abounding in monuments and churches. The cathedral is immense, amazing and houses the last resting place of "El Cid", brigand, mercenary and all round bad guy. If you had the money, you had "El Cid". Spent one hour there and could easily have spent a week.

The route between Burgos and Leon is an acquired taste. I did not acquire a taste for it nor will I ever. Flat, very hot, arid and empty. This area lies in the northern part of the Meseta, a huge plateau which forms the central plain of Spain.

Aside: Other than the major cities, the Camino is by and large routed through fairly remote countryside for most of its length and many of the albergues are located in small villages. This is particularly true of this part of the Meseta. There are bus services between many of the villages but usually only once a week and then only once on the appointed day.

It was on this stretch that I met bed bugs and mosquitoes. The bed bugs were a nuisance and a one-off, the mosquitoes were, for me, a biblical plague. From me alone they must have established a blood bank which should last a decade. Three weeks later and I still have the bite marks which show no signs of fading.

I met people who loved the barren landscape, said it gave them a sense of just how vast this land was. That is exactly what bothered me as in “God will this never end?” It did end at Leon and a welcome sight its towering cathedral spires were to Mark, Greg and I.

Leon is my favourite city on the Camino. Everything the tourist wants, massive cathedral with amazing stained glass windows that bath you in light; narrow streets joining a network of small squares full of people and restaurants, wide boulevards, all with history written into each stone. Call me romantic but I loved it.

From Leon onwards the landscape progressively took on features which we would recognise at home, woodlands and mountains. I felt very comfortable with this terrain and enjoyed walking in it, and on some days, walking up it because there are some big hills in this stretch, eg the stretch up to O Cebreiro.

I got to the top of O Cebreiro with a wee bit of puffing and panting. I got to the bottom the following day (at Tricastela) with a big bit of swollen leg. I was not a happy person, even seeing a fellow peregrino retiree in “stooky” didn’t help. Having done the best part of 400mls, to be injured within the last 80 was somewhat of a downer. However according to Mark and Greg, kind souls that they are, I had seen and walked the best part of the last section. So chin up with leg dragging I made for Santiago de Compostela on the bus.

I gave some of my impressions about Santiago in the main blog so will not over-elaborate on them here. Enough to say that it is lovely in the early morning and late evening. Sitting in the cathedral just after it opens at 7.00am, maybe with no more than half a dozen other people there, is a time to savour for ever. You get the chance to think or not to as you wish, being there is enough. However during the day the area around the cathedral is a circus and I hated it.

I found the external structure a bit of a confection and equally so the main alter. However the “Portico de la Gloria” is a masterpiece of stone sculpture as are some of carvings within the side chapels.

I couldn’t quite decide how I felt about the Cathedral. It is so obviously constructed for and dedicated to a specific person that I wondered at the “cult” overtones. That kind of tweaked at my more traditional understanding (I am 60 after all) of the place of saints in the ecclesiastical hierarchies. For example St. Andrew, the patron saint of Scotland, is represented in St. Andrew’s Cathedral in Glasgow but he is not even close to being the focus of the cathedral. In Santiago, there is no doubt about who is the focus. I have never been to St. Peter’s in Rome so maybe it is the same there but I doubt it.

There is one thing for sure though. The shrine in Santiago draws many pilgrims and visitors each year and with their faith (or lack thereof) they bring their pennies.

The Daily Routine
Get up at 6am, get dressed, pack the sleeping bag, brush the teeth, fill up with water (as much as you can carry and never less than 2lts), pack the rucksack, check for wallet, phone, glasses and passport and get out the door. Simple eh! Takes 30mins max with little or no chatting (it is 6am) and no one getting upset. Team work at its best and that is in rooms varying from 125 persons to 6, but more often than not 12. Getting organised in the morning is now referred to as doing “The Peregrino Waltz”.

After that we generally put in an hour or so on the road and stop for breakfast, coffee and sandwich or cake. I hated not getting breakfast straight away so tried to arrange as early a stop as possible and if that was before we started walking so much the better. Fifteen minutes was all it would take and I was all the better for it.

After that it was walk, rest a wee bit (have some trail mix or nuts or fruit) and walk until the day was done, usually around 1.30pm at which point the heat was so intense as to be unbearable. Even after 3 weeks, trying to walk in 35C was not a pleasant experience.

We drank water all the time, filling up at fountains along the way or buying it from machines. In the first week I was always thirsty, drinking water and orange juice like it was going out of fashion. I was drinking so much fluid I really thought something was wrong with me.

After booking in at an alberque (we would recognise them as youth hostels), we would wash ourselves, our clothes, eat a bit of food (bread and a tin of tuna/sardines etc [must remember to finish that last tin of octopus]) and sleep for a couple of hours. Late afternoon was spent talking with our fellow peregrinos about their day, the next day and anything else that appeared out of the mish-mash of conversation.

Evening involved the (easy) search for a peregrino menu, eating, chatting and the occasional half pint shandy.

Bed at 10pm and if you are lucky you get to sleep before the Olympic class snorers kick in. I thought I was good but there are some real champions out there.

Three major points:
• If you can avoid it don’t do this during the summer, the heat is just too much.
• Reduce the weight to an absolute minimum.
• Learn the language properly. This is really important and will make a major difference to your confidence in dealing with every day communications and help reduce the stress that inevitably accompanies such communications. It will also help you to get to grips with the culture of the areas through which you pass.

Aside: In Sarria, I went into a shop to ask for directions to the nearest internet café. I prepared the sentence, made sure the grammar was correct and repeated it to myself three times before going in. The two ladies to whom I spoke, looked at me, looked at each other and then burst out laughing. Spanish with a Glasgow accent must be a hoot in Sarria. They did however pay me the compliment of giving me directions in Spanish (which I understood too). So not only must you learn the language, you must also learn to speak it properly.

Back to the Real World
First thing I noticed was on the plane. A guy, in the queue waiting for the toilet, was checking out his shoes, jeans and shirt to make sure of what I don’t know but he was doing an overall check, a wee tug to straighten that seam, shirt collar ok, etc. I thought “fashion conscious eh..” and then realised that there is no such thing on the Camino. The very thought of being colour coordinated or seamed straightened is just too ridiculous for words. Which is just as well since most of the time I looked like something the cat had dragged in and that included sitting on the plane with Mr. Straightseams. I wasn’t bothered by it I just thought that it was kind of funny that I had forgotten that such things actually mattered in the real world.

Aside: As we were going out to eat one night, Mark appeared in a particularly retina searing ensemble which was described by Greg as the height of “Camino Chic”.

Second there is the noise and adverts everywhere and somehow the noise and adverts seemed to go together. Santiago was not too bad but Stanstead was too powerful. Possibly because of our lack of Spanish, the adverts we saw during our sojourn were nothing other than pictures. We saw TV as we passed through a bar but we tuned out because it had no meaning. In essence we had no TV/radio/adverts for 30 days or so. In retrospect it was a blessing. Since coming home I have switched on the TV for the news and having heard the terrible headlines, promptly switched off.

Aside: We did once hear noises emitting from a 6.00pm Spanish soap opera that I am sure my maiden aunt would have disapproved of strongly. However the scene had changed by the time we got to the TV. Purely in pursuit of cultural research you understand.

Since returning home I have been taking it very easy and avoiding the real world as much as possible. Had lunch at the 1901 with Margaret, been out with my old pal Brian for a small snifter, my cousins Martin and Tom for a meal and 2 days in bed with readjustment tummy problems which have helped me to shed another 4lbs in weight. That is me down a total of 12lbs. Physiotherapy appointment made for the bad leg and that will be me sorted.

Spending the rest of week at home readjusting and hopefully cutting the back lawn in which, by now, lurk forms of wildlife previously confined to the Masai Mara Game Reserve.

To paraphrase James Taylor: Yes, it is nice to be home again (and I intend to be here for a long time).

Tuesday 21 August 2007

On Leaving Santiago

Hi all,
Well the "Black Cat" is no more. There is a "Black Cat" image on the wall but the doors are long since locked. However the ever resourceful duo of Italian counts, Massimo and Francisco, found a superb tapas bar and introduced us to the delights of tapas, eight off. None of your Glasgow kiddy-on stuff, the real deal.

Left there and moved towards the square in front of the Cathedral where we had arranged to meet a few of the others. Progress towards our destination was constantly halted as the two charmers enocuntered many of the peolple thay had met on the Camino and each meeting consisted of lots of hugs for them and excited banter. It was great to watch how much joy they brought to each of the meetings. No wonder they are the idols of the Camino, especially for the ladies.

Finally we made it to the main square and found that more and more of our fellow travellers had arrived ahead of schedule. Last night we met the wonderful Roman lawyer Oscar who was disappointed at not being able to book into the $300 per night Parador. Tough at the top.

Nicole from Hamburg plus Vita and Kathleen from Belgium (who had walked from Belgium) had also arrived and a great time was had by all. We bought some wine and had the really good fortune to be entertained by a Gallician folk band (20 thereof) for about three hours. Greg and I even sang, he in Gaelic to great applause, and around 1 o´clock the oldies left the troops to their fate. We discovered that the guys had found the only bar open in Santiago and danced away until about 2.30. I don´t even remember those days.

This morning we decided to avail ourselves of the free breakfast offered to the first 10 peregrinos who turn up at the Parador for 9.00am. Six of "us" duly arrived at 8.00am and were joined in dribs and drabs by 5 others. That makes 11, only 10 are allowed. Senor 11 (as well as one of the others) is a permanent peregrino, moving from one Camino to another as a way of life and places like the Parador are a source of free food. Consequently he was not for moving on and that set the stage for a bit of queue jumping which was thankfully avoided when two of the prospective breakfast guest had to leave because they could not produce the Compostela, which is necessary for entrance to the feast. Hence the crowd had reduced to 9 and all were admitted.

The management did nothing to resolve the situation but then the management at this point is the car park attendent who no doubt has other priorities than sorting out queuing rights for peregrinios. The feast was a cup of coffee and some bread, hardly worth the wait but that was not really the point of the visit, at least for "us".

Also the manner in which we were all treated, courteous enough but basically as tokens to a long forgotten ideal, highlighted once again that the only people to whom we the peregrinos are special, is to ourselves. I am sure the shrinks would do a number on this tribal bonding but it somehow begs the question of just how enlightened we become on this or any other Camino. Mark you, it is not the first time I have heard it said by those who have done this before, that the Camino only really takes effect after the walking stops. I hope so.

Said goodbye to Massimo and Fransico who are off to walk the four days to Fisterre. Good luck guys and thank you for your company and support. Look forward to receiving the photos.

On a lighter note, I have done the tourist bit and bought the presents, all bar the chocolates and my Camino Tshirt.

Greg has to be out tomorrow morning at 4.00am to start is journey back to Owen Sound in Toronto, I at 8.30am for Prestwick. Doesn´t sound as exciting but for me it can´t come quick enough.

I will produce an epilouge sometime later in the week but in the meantime I want to thank everyone for their support and encouragement over the past four weeks. It meant a lot to us, especially during the down times.

best,
Arthur

Monday 20 August 2007

The final lap

Hi all,
Thanks for all the supportive messages, they help a lot. Will continue the story in the new, short but sweet sections.

Santiago (1): Took the bus in from Triacastela and had my old pal James Taylor on the cans to help bring up the down mood. That man always does the business. This was followed by the Stones doing "Brown Sugar" and a truly wonderful version of "You Can´t Always Get What you Want"(chior included)

Arrived to meet Mark and Pauline and had a wonderful lunch and I suppose I did ramble on a bit.

Did try to get an alberque in Santiago but they were all full and in reality I wanted to get to the sea as quickly as possible. Hopped a bus for Fisterre and arrived woebegone (knackered) nearly four hours later. It is supposed to take 2hrs 30mins. Fortunately I had phoned ahead to book a mattress (all the beds were gone).

Again the concept of a mattress neeeds a little updating in this part of the world. It turned out to be 9mm of foam to which I added the 9mm of foam I was carrying with me and a couple of blankets to cushion the floor. This was almost exactly the same type of bed I had so long ago in Torres del Rio only this time there were no bloody church bells. Had a cup of tea, hit the floor and slept like a baby, ie cried for my mammy. Next morning got a room in a boarding house and crashed for a few hours.

Fisterre: A relatively small town entirely devoted to two things, fish and tourists. The fish they catch and sell and the tourists they treat well, at least I was and grateful for it too.

Aside: Must remember to return the key to room 34 in Hostel Lopez when I get home.

Sky was a bit overcast so I wandered out in the shorts (not a pretty sight) and took in what little there is to see. Visited a really interesting church dedicated to the fishermen and considered going to the "end of the earth". It was 2.5km away and I thought, "No, too far for the leg". So I wandered around a bit more and found I was a bit nearer the "end of the earth". This went on for about an hour and I finally found myself, guess where, yup at "the end of the earth". Possibly the Camino makes people move in mysterious ways too.

On my arrival I was a bit disappointed and not as excited as I thought I would be. Probably still tired. However the place is a tourist trap, stalls selling everything for the discerning mug and simply mobbed with people and their cars.

I managed, as did a few others, to walk through the throng and on down to a part of the rock beyond humankind and into a bit of solitude. It was very gentle and peaceful and a time for contemplation. One of my ambitions had been to walk to the end of the earth and in a very limited way I had done that.

After a bit I noticed a woman sitting along a bit and discovered that she and I had met very briefly at Logroño, a long ways back. She is Canadian and out there looking. We had a great chat about, life, love, the universe and the number 42.

Very powerful personality but she seems not to know it. For example when I enquired when she was returning home she let it be known that she was off to Lisbon the following night and then onto Morocco to do some charity work before going back to Canada. Dumbstruck is not the word. There are people out here who are just too big for words.

Aside: She did go to Lisbon on the 10.00pm from Santiago.

The following day it was back to Santiago to see the cathedral for real and also in the hopes of meeting up with Greg and the guys coming in on Monday morning.

Aside: Oh and the bit about the sky being overcast, well by the time I had stealthily made my way to the lighthouse it was not overcast and I had shorts and I had not the factor 50. I do though have the most brilliantly sunburned legs you have seen for some time.

Aside: Apparently in Celtic mythology Heaven lies beyond this point. However we now know that it is the US.

Santiago (2): On the way to Fisterre I had bought a wee book about the cathedral in order to prepare for the visit. I did not want a repeat of Burgos and Leon where I knew nothing about the reasons why the building had been designed in the manner in which it had been. Turned up suitably informed and ran into the most horrible throng of tourists imaginable.

All fours squares surrounding the cathedral had stalls, jesters, a bloody jazz guitarist with amps full on and a dosser dressed in the ancient peregrino costume organising people for a ride on a bloody toy train which cirles the cathedral.

I did my best to read my book and view the cathedral structure, making note of things to look at more closely the next day (today, Monday) and mainly enjoying it despite the disturbances (especially that bloody guitarist) and it got worse.

It was just on six o´clock and Mass was starting. I went in and took my place in the pew to attend the service. Lots of other peolle did the same thing and though it was all in Spanish I was able to follow the service as it progressed. However there were people walking all over the place, taking flash photos and video recording. Mums and Dads and weans were posing to get their picture taken and that was even happening during the sermon. It was a bloody circus and a complete outrage.

When we all set out on this journey, there is a sense of the spiritual no matter how little and if there is not I defy anyone to say that it did not become so along the journey. Tens of thousands of us give a lot of time and effort to upholding the idea of the pilgrim, helping each other as best we can, giving each other space, holding onto our hopes for ourselves and trying to face the fears we come across as we move through the journey. We do everything we can to achieve the goal of arriving in Santiago and possibly, as many of the books state, find some sense of fullfillmet at the end of the journey. Well, mince, mince and more mince.

All of our efforts are betrayed by the crass commercialism at the final point on the walk. It is an absolute disgrace and, not joke intended, something should be done about.

Santiago (3):
Retreated to a lovely albergue, a bit new age and had a quite pleasent evening chatting with fellow travellers. Came into town this morning and met with Greg, Massimo and Fransico who were clutching their Compostelas and spreading smiles like confetti.

Booked into a hostal and attended the midday mass which is dedicated to all pilgrims who have arrived that day. A much more sober and closely managed service and all the better for it. So now off to see a bit more of the cathedral and celebrate our reunion at "The Black Cat". Should be a good night.

Will give details of the events when possible.

best,
Arthur

Sunday 19 August 2007

Mark's Epilogue


This is almost certainly my last post. The last one was going to be the end but now it is this one.

What can I say? Met Pauline at the airport and just about managed not to humiliate the two of us in the arrivals lounge. It was great to have her come out and be with me at the end.

We met up with Arthur for lunch, but I will let him tell that story.

During lunch Arthur talked almost constantly. He talked of stories, people and locations. He talked of feelings and emotions. He talked of decisions made and promises to himself that he now had to live up to. Pauline and myself just basked in the joyous radiance coming off this man. It was great to see him like this, particularly after the events of only two or three days before. Pauline loved this, as did I.

However, what she is not enjoying, and now that I am home I think everyone else is the same, is that I am not talking. This evening I had dinner with my Mother and she eventually had to ask 'Well...what about the Camino?' My response was one sentence involving around 15 words. That was it!

I don't know why I have left my brain on the Camino but that is where it seems to be.

Friday night, Pauline and I had dinner, and eventually went on for a couple of pints, with Marita and another Peregrino called Simon. I held up my side of the conversation with stories, experiences and questions. No problems there. Put me in a similar situation with non-peregrinos and I don't want to talk about it. What is going on? And I am asking. If anyone out there could give me an answer to this I would appreciate it greatly.

I can see it in Pauline's face. She doesn't know what has come back from Spain. Or is wondering if I forgot to pack a bit of me.

Maybe, I'm just tired. I have had one good nights sleep in the last two weeks and to put this right here I am writing this blog at 23:30. Clever guy me.

One other thing that came out of the lunch with Arthur is that I now have another person who understands what I did in West Highland Way Race 2006. For those that don't understand the reference watch:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OZbmGcft4M

Since this, I have been told by many people that I was stupid or just an idiot or, as Marita thinks, that I have a martyr complex.

Arthur now understands why I went on because he wanted to do the same. He understands what it is to want to complete something so much that the pain has to be pretty bad to make you stop. The funny thing is so does Marita. Even as she is telling me off for being so stupid, she is walking on with a buggered foot and three toes that have no feeling in them.

I haven't read a newspaper in over three weeks. I have absolutely no idea what has been happening in the world. For large periods I didn't even know what day it was. And now I am back to the everyday stuff that can act as fog, or smog, on our brains.

The last three weeks have been an interesting experience. I think the next three are going to be the same.

Hamilton out.

Getting close to the end

Hi everyone,
Since the Camino is drawing to an end I think it appropriate to speed up the process and give only a few details of the travels.

Molinaseca: wonderful wee town, has a genuine roman bridge, lovely narrow streets, lots of life, good food and a great wee bodega in which Greg and I were not only served the best wine we had tasted all trip but the lady of the bodega provided a plate of fried tatties and green peppers. Now how is that for knowing your customers are fellow Celts.

Villofranca: Decided to stay at the "Ave Fenix" albergue. There is an amazing story about how the "New Pheonix" came to be so named but that is another story. However the most amazing thing of all was that I met Lynsey who used to work in Student Services. After she left she completed her studies as a Chiropodist and spends two weeks each year at "Ave Fenix" albergue tending to the feet of the footsore and weary. It was a great and delightful surprise to hear a Scottish accent, the first we had heard since leaving home(other thaqn our own and we don´t hear them anyway).

Lynsey did my blisters, mosquitos bites and scraps on my back from the rucksack. Felt superb afterwards. The blisters never returned but the mosquito bites are still louping.

O Cebreiro: set off the following morning for the big push up to the top of the world, 30km for the easy route, 34 for the not so easy route. Guess which one we took. It was a long and very hard day with a 1500ft increase in altitude over 5 miles and it is very hard going.

Aside: My guess is that that was the one that put paid to me.

The views are truly Alpine and worth the effort. Had a great evening with the group of Dutch people.

Triacastla: Up and over the big hill (1250m, and superb views) and steeply down into Triacastela. Took the boots off and the tibial tendon and associated tissues were well and truly swollen.

Decided to wait until the following day to see if things improved, they just got worse. Thought I would take the bus to Sarria but it was 15th August (all time BIG holiday in Spain) and in that part of the world nothing, but nothing moves. Eventually took a taxi.

Spent the day resting in Sarria. Spoke with Scott Graham at work and talked through the possiblities. I spent some time going over the various options but since I need both legs to work for the foreseeable future I took the decision to stop walking.

I revised that decision the following morning (felt a lot better) and set out walking to the next town. Not a smart move, lasted 5km and had to get another bloody taxi to take me to Portoomarin. Saw the doctor, she strapped me up and said "FINALE" in a big loud voice. Strong men don´t weep so I am told but hey, this was a hard one to deal with. Just under 700km done, 70km to go and the walking has to stop. Strangely the hard time was when all the others set off the following morning. That, as they say, was the pits.

Will follow this up tomorrow.

Still in good spirits though here in Santiago, just back from Finisterre where I got to the end of the earth.

cheers,
Arthur

Spanish Power Cuts

Hi,
Just to let you know that I had just finished the next installment and the bloody power went off and I lost the lot. The problem is nothing new nad it is my fault since I forgot to save it asd I went along. Will try to update later tonight.

cheers,
Arthur

Friday 17 August 2007

Santiago




Yep. We did it. My Viking Vixen and me arrived in Santiago de Compostela at around 8:00pm wednesday.

It had been some day. From the moment that we left Azurua it poured with rain. Nothing for us Northern Europeans though. The Spanish and the Italians were putting on clothes like the next Ice Age was on the way. Meanwhile, Marita was wearing her evening dress (long story) and I was making a pain of myself by singing every song I could think of with rain, or sun, in the title.

We stopped for the best Peregrino menu we have had (top quality food why can´t the others do this?) then very slowly started to walk the last 11km to Santiago.

It was a strange, emotional time. There was a lot of silence and a lot of rememberences of the Camino. People, places and events. Marita particularly likes the time that a hostel owner took us for a English couple and kept on calling us ´Los Inglesos´. I, being Scottish, made a point shouting back that I wasn´t english everytime they said it. Marita just laughed.

Anyway, that and many others were once again discussed on the walk.

Then we came to Monte De Gozo. For those that don´t know, tradition says that you stop for the night there and make your way in to Santiago the next morning. I didn´t want to do that. The reason being that since Sarria, the camino had become a flood of ´Part-time´peregrinos. These are the people that do the minimum distance to do their compostela. Try as we might to love our fellow pilgrims they just bloody annoyed us. Especially the cyclists. Marita hates the cyclists.

So, I wanted to head in but there was something about Marita´s mood and quiteness that made me think that she was having second thoughts. She had already said that she was feeling sad that the camino was coming to end. We must have sat for around an hour in the warm evening sunshine (letting our clothes dry) just relaxing and looking down on Santiago. At around 7:15pm we decided that tonight was the night and set off through the massive alberque (sleeps 800 people) towards our final goal.

An hour later there we stood in front of the impressive Cathedral. There was no band playing. No-one to put medals around our necks. We only had each other to say well done to and hug. Anti-Climax? You better believe it.

Not only that we still had to eat, get our compostela and find a place to stay!

Santiago, the centre of it anyway, is a lovely, narrow streeted, cobblestoned maze of a place. Even with the souvenir stores etc. you can still, just about, hear the marching feet of the millions of peregrinos that have gone before. Of course, when walking the streets we meet many of the present pilgrims that we have met and shared experiences with along the Camino. We hug, congratulate each other, catch up on stories and enquire after others that we have left somewhere down the line. This is our fanfare. We peregrinos pat each other on the back. As I said to Marita last night, Shakespeare named it right ´We Band of Brothers´, for whomever has shared their sweat, skin, blood, taste buds, sense of smell, sore feet and damaged joints on the camino IS my Brother!

Anyway, I am at the airport waiting for Pauline to fly in. Can´t wait to see her after our longest separation ever, but I am still upset as I had to say goodbye to Marita this morning. NOT a good thing to do. We have shared the camino, time, histories and thoughts for a large part of this thing. She is an incredible lady and one that I am honoured and proud to have as my friend. I hope that that can continue. Does this sound a bit emotional? Tell you what, you do the same thing with someone and see how you feel at the end.

Don´t know if Arthur has posted that he has hurt his leg and is unable to complete the camino. I am gutted for him. Once I get Pauline off the plane I have arranged to meet him in Santiago for lunch at the very least. Think his going to head down to Finesttre.

So that is it. Finis. Done. Over. If you are looking for my thoughts and insights on the camino...too bad. I am afraid they are private and personal largely. If you want to know what happens On the Road to Santiago, go to St. Jean Pied du Port and put on your walking boots.

Later Dudes.

Thursday 16 August 2007

The High Point

Hi all,
On leaving Rabanal del Camino we climb up to the high point of the route. Well climb is a bit of an overstatement but it is a pretty demanding ascent. The views though are worth it, especially when the sun is rising and creating ever changing shadows on the land below.

At the top of the (big) hill sits the "Cruz de Ferro" at 1504m (which is a lot of feet for those who can calculate it). Pilgrims are supposed to bring a stone from their home country and deposit it at the base of the cross. Not knowing this wee detail, neither Greg nor I had brought a stone. Anyway we were carrying enough with us without adding a stone to the load.

There are a whole range of artifacts left by those how passed by. Old shoes, caps, Tshirts, letters, pictures etc. The one that caught my imagination was an old fashioned alarm clock. Now that pilgrim was really fed up with the early rises.

I said earlier on that there had not been on cross word heard in three weeks (maybe two at the time of writing) but that morning nearly broke the spell. We were all admiring the structure when a man and wife cyclist team arrived and the man proceeded to park his bicycle at the base of the wee hill below the cross and took a picture of it. He then took the second bicycle, accurately positioned next to the first and took another picture. They did not take photos of themselves, just the bicycles. It appears that "Care in the Community" in Spain is not working. I can just see the expressions on the neighours faces when those two photos are presented for admiration.

I was so dumbfounded by the callous indifference to this centuries old monument that the bicycle nuts had gone before I had the chance to shout at them. I shouted anyway but they did not hear me.

Anyway I have a pretty good picture of the cross which I will add later (probably when I get home next week) but for the moment you may want to get a glance at the following site, Cruz de Ferro, to see what it looks like.

Pretty nifty but you can´t see the alarm clock.

From then on it was literally slightly downhill then uphill for quite a bit and then really downhill it was. Went on for hours and at this point the sun decided to have one of it´s really shiny, hot, boiling and blistering days.

Aside: Unless you are really keen on the sun don´t ever do this in August.

For those who have walked the West Highlknd Way think of the worst part of the descent into Kinlochleven and then give it attitude. To add to all of this I lost my trusty "Excaliber" (nod to Daniel in Tarbes) just after getting into Molinaseca, the next stop on the road, when I stopped to top up the water bottles.

At the end it was the usual practice though this time the beer moved up to the top of the task list. Enough said.

cheers,
Arthur

Getting higher

Hi,
Greg and I left Astorga a bit later than usual due mainly to me having difficulty getting out of bed and then making a complete mess of packing the rucksack.

I had to stop about three times to get it sorted. greg is a patient man.

Aside: John (who owns the rucksack), you need a new one.

This is the point on this trip when you start the climb into Galicia. Not too bad a walk, nice day and lovely scenery. The other thing that is noticeable is the different house construction. In the maseta there are lots of mud and brick constructions but moving further out of that zone you will find more and more stone being used. It is also obvious that the changes in house construction reflect a change in the economic activity of the area.

Arrived at Rabanal del Camino which has one of the most delighgtful alberques on the road. The albergue was a wreck of a place until the Confraternity of St. James (an English institution dedicated to supporting the Camino concept) decided to spend some serious pennies on it. It is very rustic, quite religious with a retreat house attached and Gregorian Chant services to end the evening. It has a huge garden which was just what was needed to help us relax. We were also getting to higher terrain the weather became more pleasent and this helped a lot.

Aside: Did I say that each afternoon on the walk we arrive approximately at 1.30pm (we do start awfully early though), get showered, wash the clothes and relax with beer and sardines and bread followed with a snooze. Tough old life let me tell you.

This albergue is "manned" by volunteers, each set are there for about two to three weeks at a time. This beats the hell out of Benidorme any day. The three female volunteers were very welcoming to everyone and set the tone for the relaxed time we had there.

Ina ddition to meeting our first American (and her Flemish partenr) we met a young couple from Ireland who decided that they would stay in the retreat house for a couple of days spiritual devotion, support by the three monks who life there permanently. Seems this happens all the time.

Anyway, again to bed at 10.00pm. The doors get locked at that time and if you are not in, you are not getting in.

Next morning the big climb and the bigger descent awaited.

More later.

best,
Arthur

Wednesday 15 August 2007

Onwards to Astorga

Hi all,
With the departure of Mark for pastures west, the Caminoistas were reduced to a party of two, Greg and myself. We hoofed out of Leon looking forward to an easy day with only 20km to Villamazarife, a reportedly small and very intersting village on th road to Astorga. Easy day it was and we arrived early enough to surprise the albergue manager still organising for that days intake.

We had looked at the other three albergues but one was a bit too far out for our liking and the other "Tio Pepe´s" was a bar with accommodation tacked on as an afterthought, ie thinking about the pennies that could be made from peregrinos.

The one we choose (name escapes me just now) is a really interesting albergue. the owner, Pepe, had made a promise that if he was cured of a significant and life threatening disease he would open and maintain an albergue on the Camino. His Camino was successful and he fulfilled his promise by establishing the best albergue in the village. Pepe is a qualified physio (with whom I could do with just now) and offers massages to those in need. We did not discover this until massage time had passed.

This was the albergue in which we also met Mark and Marion, the parents of the baby Mare for the first time. We keep crossing paths with them as they plough through 40kms per day. How they do this I have no idea and whenever possible (ofetn enough) they camp out rather than use the albergues. Very, very nice people but tough or what.

It was alos the albergue were we had our first really good meal for some time. It was a vegitarian dish and there was more than you could eat and believe me we tried.

Next morning we headed out for Astorga, 33km further on. Walked through some really nice countryside, reminded me very much of a French landscape. The day moved ahead on the heat and we arrived in Astorga round about 1.00pm. Had lunch, which has now settled into bread and sardines or tuna (the diet is going well) and an afternoon siesta.

Astorga is a lovely place, quite small but all the better for that. It houese one of the most famous of the Gaudi creations. It is not beyond the bounds of possiblity that Walt Disney got the famous castle image from this building. A representative image can be viewed at:
http://www.diocesiscastillayleon.org/astorga/palacio_episcopal.htm#palacio.

The outside is stunning enough but the inside is out of this world. More columns and arches thatn you could shake a stick at and all very Moorish too. The artefacts are superb from the early Roman crosses to two amazing frescos. The place is just outstanding. The cathedral next door was closed but hey, after the Gaudi palace, who cares.

Aside: A small town in Spain with a Gaudi palace and a cathedral next to each other, what a planet.

We eat the famous local dish, Cocido Maragato, for dinner. The dish is a local favourite consisting of a plate of all sorts of bits of pig (and I mean all sorts of bits), chick pea platter and pasta soup (in that order). We had the best glass of wine for some time. All of that and a interesting time talking with the owner who spoke only Spanish and Greg and I speaking Spanish gibberish. We did though find out the the man´s wife spoke good English but she was not in the resturant. Funny what you find to say when you really want to talk to someone. Ended up with a "on the house" local drink made from berries. Hot or what. Puts one to sleep I tell you.

On the walk back through the town we came into two of the main squares (plazas). It was approximatelt 10.00pm and they were bursting at the seams with families having their evening meal. We have often been struck by the presence of families out together for meals, everyone from granny to the weans. The kids are as kids are, running about mad, but it doesn´t seem to matter to anyone. It is like big happy familes, with every family joining in.

Astorga is another venue for the return trip.

cheers,
Arthur

And so to Leon


Hi,
The road out of El Burgo is straight for about 13km. I presume it must follow the same track as the Romans built a few years ago. The land surrounding us was as flat as it had been for the past 150 kilometeres and we made good speed, about 6km/hr, reaching Mansilla de las Mulas at 19km along the road.

Tried to get some coffee at a local market cafe but we were ignored in favour of the locals, most of whom came in after we had arrived. Left with a few glares and moved on. When we came into the town there is a monument to the Camino perigrenos which has three human figures arranged around a cross. One of the figures is prostrate on the ground, a pose supposedly designed to show tiredness. More like desperation for a cup of coffee which has still to arrive.

The next 20km was a bit of a slog though again the chatter, patter and occasional curse at the heat, made it all seem a lot easier.

Finally arrived in Leon to see the cathedral spires and headed that way to get a bed for the night.

Booked into the local convent albergue, us and 70 others. Good place but the number of toilets and showers allocated to men reflected the gender bias of the institution.

Leon is by far the most beautiful of all the towns visited thus far. Narrow streets link smal squares which were full to bursting with people having lunch, a main meal of the day in Spain. The place was really alive and the tourists for once were outnumbered by local people.

On the outside the cathedral is not so different from most other cathedrals but on the inside it is outstanding, much better than Burgos. It has been designed tp have enourmous stained glass windows and the effect is overwhelming. You are bathed in colour from the moment you enter the building. There are side chapels galore and the central chapel is huge. The thing that impressed me most was the carved choir stalls. The detail and workmanship are to be seen to be believed. You could look at them for ever.

Well we didn´t because we needed to get to the bus station to get a bus timetable for Mark who was leaving us the following day. This took us through the main section of town and past another Gaudi palace. The street was designed as a boulevard containing a whole range of shops which, it was suggested, would delight any shopaholic. We did not buy anything, had to save the pennies for the peregrino menu.

Having sorted mark´s bus journey out we returned to the dorm for a well earned rest (after all it had been a 39km walk).

Went to dinner and against Mark´s wishes, we ordered another peregrino menu. We all had a "varied meats" starter followed by some other forgetable dish followed by an even more forgetable dessert. Mark was not a happy boy and when when the waitress asked if he enjoyed the meal he took the chance to so No! in such a definitive manner that the lassie was less than chuffed. After that one Mark swore that that was the last peregrino menu he was ever going to order. Didn´t even have time for a beer before we retruned to the convent for a bendiction service.

One old nun explained all that was to happen in the service to the gather congregation. She only spoke Spanish so we were no the wiser. We were then taken into a private chapel for the service. This was a great honour and is only given to those walking the Camino. The chapel was quite large (for a chapel that is) and superbly decorated.

All the nuns filed in (about 10 in all) and the benediction commenced, again all in Spanish though we did have English translations. Very moving stuff and just the ticket to send us all off to bed.

If you want to visit any part of the Camino, Leon is the place to go (and you don´t have to have the peregrino menus).

Next morning mark headed off for the bus and Greg and I head off for Villafranca del Camino anbd then onwards to Astroga the following day. Astorga and points west in the next installment.

Hope you are all enjoying this belated travelogue. At this stage (5 days on) I am having a hard time remembering where I am never mind where I have been. Will get the memory banks sorted later today.

best,
Arthur

Update 4

The mosquitos (remember them) and I left Carrion de los Condes heading for Terradillos de Templarios, a place reknowned for it´s Templar history. The difficulty is that (according to the books) there is a 17km stretch of absolute ziltch before the next wee town. This was verified by the people in the albergues. So extra water has to be taken and a few morsels of bread to fend off the inevitable hunger. No scones and jam at 10am here.

The land is very flat, very few trees and little if any shade. 8.00am and it was hot and getting hotter. I saw a couple walk about 200m off track to sit under the only tree within sight. However I discovered that human enterprise is not dead in this part of the world when out of the blue a bar appears, stocked with all sorts of goodies at slightly inflated prices. I treated myself to a cafe solo grande (a new addiction) and continued on my way.

At about 11am, I shambled into the next wee town (name forgotten) to find mark sitting enjoying the shade and another Cola light. We star and chatted with a few of the fellow travellers for a while before heading out on the last 9km of the days target. Natalie, one of the German walkers, was not feeling too well and decided to stay there.

I have a rule that means I walk 1 hour and rest 10 mins. This has served me well on the trip but that day I could only walk 30mins before needing to take a rest. The heat is that intense. Mark and I slumped under a scrawny wee tree but Mark, who was really suffering from the heat, decided he needed to get going or possibly he would be there for a lot longer than would be good. I follwoed 10mins later and found to my joy that the albergue was within sight (round the corner from the slumping tree).

Showereed, shaved, and beer in hand we all congrugated at the terrace (it was a very modern albergue). The talk of the steamy though was about all the other people who had taken to their beds with stomach ache and associated problems. Turns out that the people staying at a particular albergue had all come down with the bug, most probably from contaminated water.

This was a rest day and so we rested. We didn´t even have the energy to go and see the Templat castle. Some did and assured us that we had made the correct decision.

The following morning we were awakend at 5.00am by a huge thunderstorm and a deluge of rain, the first we had seen since our arrival. It only lasted for an hour but it was a wonderful sight and sound.

We all put on the wet weather gear, stepped out the door (approx. 6.00am) and the rain stopped. Change of clothing and we were off to the wonderfully named "El Burgo Ranero".

Greg, the Dublin man from Canada, joined us for the journey that day.
We passed through a number of towns but at that time of the morning they all look the same. At Sahagún, Marita left us to catch a train to Leon. Her shoes were falling apart and Leon was the only place where she was sure to get a suitable pair.

The walking was fine and the chat was easy. Many people come on the Camino to get space for thinking. All well and fine but it really does help pass the time and shorten the distance when you have good company.

On the way we passed through one of the most representative villages of that region of the meseta. It is called "Bercianos del Real Camino". Not pretty but representative. We had actually planned to stay overnight but the extra 8km to El Burgo was a short plough after seeing that village.

Not that El Burgo was much bigger but it was a lot better. I asked foer directions to "centro del pueblo" and was told this is it.

Good food, internet access and a long sleep. And so we are off to Leon.

Leon stories next.
best,
Arthur

Monday 13 August 2007

Mark´s Day God Knows


Right. Been in a internet hinterland where the best that is available has been at dial up modem speed.

Firstly, a big hello to all those in Sweden. Apparently, Marita has passed around this URL so people are dropping in.

I am typing from Melide. 52km from Santiago. Yep, only 52 to go.

To bring you all up to date. I made the bus to Villafranca del Bierzo (some days ago?). What a place and what a difference from the other parts of Spain we have been in. More like the Alps. Wonderful.

Marita has to be Santiago on the same day so when she heard what I was doing she decided to also do the same thing. So, in the end up, I had a whole afternoon to myself before the Viking Vixen showed up. It was good to catch up with as (we had seen each other for two or three days). After a good night in the town we set off at 6:30am for O Cerberia (or something like that. Boring at first it turned into a fantastic scenic walk which included the climb up the mountain to O Cerberia in the full heat of the day. But we both loved it. The big point on the Alberque (note to Arthur and Greg) is that money seems to have been spent on freezing the water for the showers, rather than heat them up.

Next day, it was off the Triacasela (that didn´t have one castle - someone explain). A short walk for us now, 21km, and we took our time over it.

Next morning, couldn´t get Madam out of bed so set off at 7:30am for somewhere. Marita has now insisted that we leave everything to destiny i.e. when we start, how far we go, if we get a bed etc. In the end up it did work well although we didn´t get beds in the first two place and had to walk a further 5km and had to spend a little extra money by booking into a hostel rahter than an alberque. By this time it seemed absolute luxury not to have to share your bed room with 40 - 100 other people.
In Galcia, the rolling hills look for all the world like Ireland or Scotland. Then the patron puts on some outdoor music as you sit looking at it and it is Van Morrison! Weird.

We put in some kms yesterday to move us on as we have an idea to take a bus down to Finesterre if we can. The coast is meant to be something to see.

Today, 31kms. More than I should have actually (got a lot of pain from the hips over the last 6 kms) but the Scandanavian Siren has bought herself another new pair of shoes, so there was no stopping her.

Two days from now we should be in Santiago. Can´t imagine how that is going to feel.

Thanks to everyone for the comments regarding my failure. They are greatly appreciated. What I can say is that while I was running I didn´t want to be here. Since I have stopped I been on a whole new journey. One of soul searching, thinking and walking. I have talked to so many incredible people from so many different countries, all with different tales to tell. I am now a peregrino, fully fledged.

Love to all back home from Marita and me.

Later Dudes

Friday 10 August 2007

Updating 3: the saga continues

One fianl comment about Bodialla del Camino before moving on. The place is reasonably large for a typical village but it seems to be devoid of any human activity other than that surrounding the albergue. Not one resident was abroad throughout the whole time we were there. Saw a horse (and took a photo thereof) but that was about it. Strange wee place.

Anyway you have been waiting to hear about the walk to Carrion de los Condes. Not much to report other than we took the wrong road and I got chewed by mosquitos and the lumps are still with me 5 days later. Took the scenic route along a nice river. It was a nice day, quite cool in the shade of the trees bordering the river and a blessed relief from the sun which was beginning to boil the air around us. Stopped off at an open air bar (hut in the shade of some trees) that was closed and then stopped off at another open air bar that was open. The girl at the bar had been on the Camino the year before, fallen in love and returned to be with her love. Hopefully her love was worth the devotion because the bar was far from the ideal place to spend a live. Had coffee and cake before heading further on and finally arriving at Carrion de los Condes.

Booked in the monastery albergue which was very nice. Had a courtyard shaded from the sun, very good accommodation but the clothes washing facilities were rather primitive including cold water only. Serves us right since we had intended to booking the convent albergue which had much better facilities. However after 20km in the sun any refugio will do.

The town is lovely and was the biggest and best developed place we had been in for some time. The highlight was a birthday party for Oscar, held in the church square and attend by every Italian who had made it Carrion. Everyone else from Bodilla were also there to cheer on Oscar. At the request of the two Dutch ladies, Greg and I gave a verse and chorus of a popular Irish drinking song. We were not that great but hey, two glasses of wine and you can get away with a lot. It also helps if the audience have had more than two glasses which they had. A really good evening and one which allowed us all to reinforce our sense of companionship and common purpose.

Mark headed out about 5.45 but I wanted some breakfast so waited on the cafe opening at 6.00am. Great coffee and cake. Left about 6.15am to catch up with Mark and promptly got lost. Found the right road by about 7.00am but by then I was raging mad at myself since this was going to be a long hike, over 30km and I had already lost the plot at the start. Didn´t help that the mosquitos from the previous day had passed the news on to their relatives that I was in the area. They all came to visit.

Will followup later, people waiting to use the PC.

best,
Arthur

Updating 2: Some people

Hi again,
Moved on and found a PC in a bar. A man has to do what a man has to do.

I left you with the mosquitos and us on the road to Corrion de Las Condes.
I should have added a wee bit about the people we met at the impromtu birthday dinner.

First there is Greg, a Dublin man based in Owen´s Sound, Ontario for the past twenty years with his wife Rosina and 4 children. Mark, Greg and I have been walking together for the past few days and now that Mark has moved on Greg has to put up with me on his own. Has been a great companion and we are keeping each other going with the stories of our respective childhoods and philosophical approaches to all things good, not so good.

Next we have Oscar, a lawyer from Rome who has a very firm idea of the place of Italy and especially Rome in the development of Western culture. He also has very firm opinions on the superiority of Italy in relation to her Mediteranian neighbours. Oscar has tried to complete the Camino last year but had to give up due to a bad knee. He is out here trying again but the knee is acting up again.

Vita is a Belgian lady who started in Belgium with her friend Kathleen, walking down through France and into Spain. Should finish much the same time as ourselves and in a far better state. She also happens to be an expert in Argentinian Tango but so far no demonstrations.

Nicole is a young German woman from Hamburg, travelling on her own as is Maria another woman from Germany. Both are very strong and resourceful and committed to completing the Camino. There are many Germans on the Camino this year. The main reason is that a famous and popular Germon comic wrote a book about the Camino and this has inspired many to take to the road.

Nicole has changed her departure date 3 times, the last time to ensure that she can walk to Fisterre, an ambition for many travellers. Apparently on reaching Finsterre, one is supposed to divest all cothing, butn them and run naked into the sea. Not sure if there is any basis in truth by Mark Hamilton claims it is so. If I reach Fisterre, be assured that I will not burden humanity with such a sight.

There are two lovey Dutch ladies of mature years who are walking along for the fun of it. Try 30km a day and laugh (and they do).

We have recently met a family from Holland, Dad, Mum and baby girl (Mare) who are completing the Camino as a belated honeymoon. Can you imagine suggesting a 480ml trek as a honeymoon? Not quite the usual approach but on this road there are so many individuals who do not fit the "Walmart" image.

Thanks to all who have added your comments, the beloved Christine in particular. Hope the new book is selling well. As you will see from my contributions, a grammar course might be in order.

Will get back later tonight. The queue for the PC is now at biblical proportions.

best to all,
Arthur

Wednesday 8 August 2007

Updating 1

Hi Everyone,
I have finally got a PC that works properly and the time to add more than a few comments so I am taking this opportunity to add to mark´s entries.

After joing mark in Santa Domingo de Calzada we moved on the following day to Belorado, a small town. It has however been graced with a new Alberque, situated at the entrance to the town, designed to entice the perogrinos with the delights of a modern youth hostel. In addition to the requisite beds, showers, washing machines/dryers etc, it has a bar, games room, internet connection (off sorts) and a swimming pool. We were enticed but mainly because it was the first place that offered sanctuary from the 38C temperature. Had a walk though the twom which was not overly memorable but the two huge churches (like every other "hole in the wall village") were pretty impressive.

On returning to the albergue, I decided to try the swimming pool but lasted less than a minute. The water was a mere 28C and for me that day that was freezing cold.

Had another "peregrino menu" (Mark just loves peregrino food) which was fine but served by a girl who is audtioning for the Spanish "Ms. Grumpy" national competition. She is going to have a very good chance of winning.

Following morning at 6.00am we moved on to Ages. Passed through S. Juan de Ortega, a point on the map that appears to be a major stopping point. We had decided to bypass before we got there and we were glad to have done so. It had a bar, with rooms above and nothing else. No buildings, strangely no churches. The last Chance Saloon with a barman who was going for the "Mr. Grumpy" competition. I should point out that Ms. & Mr. Grumpy are very unusual. By and large the people who run the bars and albergues are really nice and helpful and do their best to understand our faltering Spanish which with our Scottish accents cannot be easy for them.

Anyway headed on into Ages witha temp of 35C and glad to be there. Nice wee albergue, populated by a French group and a team of young Germans whoch were having a great time on the road to Santiago. The young Germans were more on holiday than on a pilgrimage. They would complete more than the requisite last 100km but they would do so in such a way as to ensure that they would have the time to visit new found friends in Madrid before having to return to Germany. Great life eh! I have vague memories of such an approach to life. Never got to Madrid mark you. They were great company and I loved being in the presence of their enthusiasim for their life.

Part of the folk lore that was poresented that night was of two European women of not insubstantial wealth (whom we had already met)were walking the Camino but were staying in hotels. When they reached S. Juan de Ortega a taxi would pick them up and take them back to Belorado and return them to the pickup point in the morning from whence they would continue their walk to Burgos. They probably did not have to survive on peregrino menu fare either.

Also met a Swedish woman, Marita, who was to join us for a few days before moving on with her own Camino.

Moved from there to Burgos. The walking conditions changed a bit and it was very cool in the morning for which we were very grateful. Passed through Atepurca in which was found the oldest man in Europe, about 1 million years old, give or take a couple of weeks. We could not see him at 6.00am but we would not have been much company at that time anyway. However we know how he feels.

Ground our way up the hill to be presented with a superb view of the plain leading into Burgos. That was the last pleasent view we had until Burgos. Walked approximately 15km via an industrial sprawl. Not pleasent and certainly not inspiring.

Arrived in Burgos a bit worse for wear and a bit disappointed at the albergue accommodation. Decided to move but first the Cathedral. I wish I could upload some of the pictures, it was simply "estupendo" as they say in this part of the world. It was overwhelming in it´s design and grandeur. I wish I had spent nmore time on reading baout it before I left. It would have made such a difference to the visit, which last one whole hour. Lacking any real knowledge of what I was seeing meant that after an hour I was "visited out". However there are plans afoot (especially after seeing Leon Cathedral) to return in the next couple of years to see the sights as a tourist.

Aside:
This one of the less understood apsects of this type of journey, ie walking 20 to 25 miles a day, day after day, leaves one with little energy for the deliberations that such grand architecture deserve. This also applies to the spititual deliberations with which one hopes to engage. Getting washed (you and the clothes), getting fed and getting to bed to get up at 5.00am takes a lot of energy and leaves little for other thoughts. Talking with other people is the best that one can expect to do and thank God for them. The more we talk the more we find that we are the same.

Having decided to move on from Burgos, we did just that. having already put in a fair number of kilometres we decided to limit the afternoon to a further 5 and headed for VillaBilla de Burgos.

Not the best of ideas and the least said the better. The next stop along (2km) was even worse and the two further alberques had been closed. At my insistence we took a taxi to the next stop on the route, Hontanas. It was the quintessential Spanish village dropped from heaven and I was grateful that it existed at all after the disappointment of Villabilla de Burgos.

Aside: That is 65km I will not have walked. Now down to a potential distance of 705km.

Albergue was really nice and the food was also. Quite night and up at 5.30am for the road.
This was the day of my 60th birthday and since I could not spend it with my family I was happy to start it off in such a lovely place.

Arrived in Bodilla del Camino tired and very hot but their was beer and a swimming pool made the difference. Just put my sad old feet in. They needed the help.

Had a birthday surprise from Mark and Marita. They had arranged for the dinner to be held in my honour and it was a surprise to have "Happy Birthday" sang in about 6 or more different European langiages. The meal was superb and if the owners of the albergue at Bodilla del Camino ever get to read this blog please accept my heartfelt thanks for your kindness. However early to bed and early to rise.

Aside:
I can´t remember the last time I did not get up at 5.00am and get on the road for 6.00am at the latest. One of the really impressive things about all of this is the attitude of the people arround you. Everyone is extremely courteous and when needed ready to help anyone to get ready to get on the way. Can you imagine 50 people (sometimes over 100) getting out of bunk beds, trying to arrange their belongings into rucksacks, get water and where possible something to eat all at approximately 5.00am and not one problem. I have not heard one unkind word in over two weeks.

Out of Bodilla in the dark and one wrong turn and we were into a swamp area infested with mosquitos and guess who they just loved. I have welts in place that I did not know existed until I met the mosquitos. Quick retreat and onto Corrion de Las Condes.

There are people waiting to use this free connection so I have to go.

All is well and I am enjoying the trip.

cheers,
Arthur

Monday 6 August 2007

Mark´s Days 10, 11 & 12 (?)

Hello again.

Soory to be absent so long, but things have been happening.

We are quite a way along the Camino. Over half way actually. I am not going to able to be able to do it all now so on Wednesday or Thursday I am taking a bus, probably, to Villafranca, and will walk in slowly from there. The wear and tear of this trek is something that I had bargained on and there is always a little pain somewhere. Arthur and me are not alone in this though. Everyone at this stage is immediately obvious by their curious walking style. We even joked that the theme song for the Camino should be REM´s "Everybody Hurts".

We have been passing through the Messina. The flat, long area of the Camino that upsets a lot of people mentally. Can´t say that it has bothered me that much but then I am used to seeing a trail stretching out for miles and miles ahead of you.

Day 10, whatever day that was, was Arthur´s birthday. Marita organised a little party where most of the Pilgrims staying at the Alberque that night sang "Happy Birthday" to him. I think he was touched with this. It was a good night.

The next day we were in Carrion De Los Condes. After doing all that I need to do each day after the walking (shower, clean clothes etc) I headed into the town to let Arthur sleep. I got back to the room 7 hours later after spending sometime with Marita, then drinking with an Irish/Canadian called Greg Byrne and attending second Pilgrim birthday in two days. It was a good day but bloody hot. It was hotter than we had had it so far. So that puts up at around 40 degrees.

Yesterday, a lot of us had some bad water. The effects didn´t hit us until we out in the middle of nowhere with the tempreture in the 30´s. Luckily, I wasn´t effected badly (took myself to bed and just drank water). Two others had it bad though and I did whatever I could for the girls, seeing as the people they were with didn´t seem interested in helping them.

One of the girls, Martina, is from the Czech Rep. I talked to her just to try and take her mind off the fact that she was vomoiting ever 20 mins. She told me that she was on the Camino to find herself. I asked why she had to find herself. She then told me the story of the scrafice and struggle that she had at home to try and care for her three relatives, work to support them and try to study for her Ph.D at the same. The story and the lack of self pity left me humbled. She is quite a girl.

I am looking at the title of this entry and I can´t decide if it is right. I have lost days. This happening a lot. I don´t know the day or the date. Locations are merging into one another. The mornings a grind of "Get the kms in before the heat kills you". The evenings rest, recover, have a laugh, prepare for the next day.

Ellen, I will be buying you new rucsac. The one you gave me stinks. I can´t believe how bad it it smells. But then it has had x amount of days with sweat going into it for 7 - 8 hours a day.

By my reckoning, I will cover another 216 kms of the Camino before next Friday. One part of me wants it over now (I miss people and home), while another knows that I am meeting some incredible people.

I have been asked to say that Arthur did try and blog tonight but we are restricted to whatever service we happen upon in each town and he couldn´t log in it was so slow.

Will try a blog more often and will try and work out how long I have been here and where I am before I do it.

Later Dudes

Thursday 2 August 2007

Mark´s Day 9

Well, what a day. We set off early and today has been cool. It onlt got up to 29 degrees. So, we put in some kms.

We past through Burgos. The entrance to this city is ugly, but the older town at the centre is beautiful and the Cathedral is spectacluar.

Marrita walk with us today and it was nice to hear the stories, thoughts and opinions of someone else. She is a very positive lady who sees nothing as a problem, it can always be solved. I am not so sure.

My feet are almost back to normal, remembering that the miles themselves leave your feet feeling sore all the time. My right hip continues to be a problem, but I am not here to enjoy myself. I am Uno Peregrino, a pilgrim. My suffering is helping others :->

My plans are to walk with Arthur as far as I can and bus forward to a point 100km outside of Santiago and make my way in from there. This will mean that I can still receive my Compostela certificate. This is the way most people do it i.e. they only do 100km. By the time we are finished, Arhtur and myself will have done over six times that distance.

Two weeks tomorrow, I am in Santiago.

Later Dudes.

Wednesday 1 August 2007

Arriving at a Junction

Hi All,
Not much to add to what Mark has stated already. A good day with 27.5km passing in pleasent circumstances, if we disregard the occasional, "Oh Ya ..." which is often in evidence when we have to start walking again after a rest. For some reason resting wearied feet and limbs is not the best thing to do if they have to start working again after a few minutes.

Today´s highlight was the sight of a family (Mum, Dad, three girls and a boy, the children all under 10 years old) walking along together in the early morning sunshine. The kids were jibbering away and singing and shouting "Buen Camino" to one and all. Everyone calls "Buen Camino" at some stage of the day. In so doing we recognise that on the Camino, even though we are personally trying as best we can to achieve whatever we can, there is always enough left over to show pleasure at the presence of our fellow travellers and encouragement in what they are trying to do. That is what makes it special.

And on a final personal special note for a special person, Happy Birthday Rachel. Hope you have a wonderful day.

Mark´s Day 8

Well, firstly thanks to everyone that has sent good wishes to me and Arthur. It is great to receive these and to hear from everyone.

Physical matters first. My foot is recovering well. It is sore in the early morning and then whenever we stop, but generally I am almost back to walking normally. My right hip continues to grumble, as does my left knee. So, I should go back to running. Well...no.

Here is the other thing. Since my enforced walk and have actually started to enjoy and see the benefit of this journey. I now have time to take in the landscape, to consider things other than how much water I am going through, how far to the next drinks machine or what my current pace is.

Instead, I think I might have actually started to dip my toe in the waters of what the Camino is for all the other people.

Before as I ran along, if there was a thought, other than the ones above, they would be negative, or involve negative emotions. Now, less stressed, less tired, less fast postive thoughts come my way, or thoughts that I can have a postive outlook on.

I have just had a long discussion with Marrita, a swedish lady, who spoke of the importance of the inner journey rather than the physical one. Now, I have a problem as a matter of course with people talking this way BUT, let´s be honest, I spent a fortune on this trip. I can no longer do what I intended to do, so I am as well at least trying to attain some benefit from it.So I should try it.

I have made some decisions already. I am sure other things will crop up and I will have deal with those at the time. One thing I have decided, that I am prepared to share with you is that, in the rest of this trip, I am going to try and get a grip on patience. Pauline and my family will tell you, this is not something that I have had up until now. I have had an enforced ´slowness´ put upon me. I am going to try and use that lack of haste to think things through and to allow others to do the same.

Will it work? Who knows.

What I can tell you is that Arthur and me walked through some lovely countryside today. Down some wonderfully tranquil and peaceful wooded trails. A pleasently strong wind keeping the worst of the days heat from our necks. And I still itched at times to take off. Margarita has made me promise to take off my watch tomorrow.

I can say that today I was happier than yesterday. Which was happier than the day before. Which was happier than the day before, which was an absolute pisser of a day.

Stay tuned for the next installment of Hamilton in Hippyland.

Later Dudes.