So, I am a walker now. The shame of it :->
Hobbling about a bit this morning until I took off the dressing that the Monk in Santo Domingo Monastery had put on my foot and put my own on. The Ancient might have been an incredibly caring and compassionate soul but he knew sod all about padding up a foot.
He did say I should rest a couple of days but when I said that I would walk on he said that I was a ´Warrior´. Thought Mike Mason might like to here that :-> Hamilton, star of film and now the Catholic Church has bestowed the honour of ´Warrior of St. James´upon him.
Result!
Arthur Loughran put his on plans aside and bused through to Santo Domingo last night in order that we can spend the next ten or so days walking together. As I can´t now complete the Camino the way I wanted to, I am more than happy to do this.
Today we set off at 6:30am from Santo Domingo, through the crop fields of La Rioja and now into Burgos region, in the burning sun.
We have just had a beer and sandwich and on checking the Thermostat and it was 26 degrees in the bar. God knows what it is outside.
The companionship is great, particularly now when I have failed in carrying out my plans. Still trying to work out why my feet and hips and brain have reacted the way they have. Perhaps, 129 miles with 20lbs on my back, in temp. of over 35 degrees celcius might have something to do with it. Feel a bit gutted still.
I have a new found respect for those unfit, infirm and disabled folk that I see on this route. No matter that they go less far every day and go slower, or get someone to lighten their load for them. They still cover the same ground as me, in the same heat and you must believe me, THIS IS NOT EASY. This is a test for anyone. Especially those that do it alone and must draw on their inner strengths to keep them going.
But as I say, Arthur has kindly joined me and we soldier on. Two blokes, talking a load of old toot On the Road to Santiago.
Tuesday, 31 July 2007
To Logroño and beyond
Hi All,
Since there had been little if any sleep at Torres del Rio it was easy enough to start getting ready for the day ahead at 5.00am. Daniel produced coffee and some food (from where remains a secret) and we were off by 5.40am. It was a bit cold at the start but a few hills later we were nicely warm.
It is good walking at that time of the morning, you have the world to yourslef (and a few other walkers). The big moon was still giving us enough light to see the yellow arrows pointing the way to Santiago.
We arrived in Vianna at approx. 8.00am and stopped off for coffee and chirizo bocodillas in a seating area in front of the magnificent Santa Maria church. Again the ever resourceful Daniel produced a primus stove with pot, water, coffee and sugar.
Aside: The man is a marvel. I found out later he was carrying the best part of 20kg. I had to send stuff home to get down to a manageable 13kg.
Having been on the move for over 2 hours it was bliss sitting in front of this wonderful building having breakfast with other peregrinos. It has it´s own form of magic. You pay for it in sore feet but it is a package of memories and friendships that make it all worthwhile.
Leaving Vianna we moved onto Logroño, talking about life and the universe and at one point both of us singing "John Brown´s Body" to the world (without the aid of booze and at 10.00am). The world was not too impressed but we were having a good time.
We arrived in Logroño at about 11.00am, had a beer and then Daniel took his leave to go onto Navarette, a further 13km which I could not face, especially after the experience of the heat on day before. It was already 33C and about to get hotter.
I was sorry to say cheerio to Daniel, who had for a couple of days been a source of encouragement and good conversation.
I finally got to make my way to the main hostel, which unfortuneatly did not open until 2.30. By that time I was nicely roasted and the first thing was shower and then get the washing done. Whilst the clothes were spinning away I went out and about to get information from the local tourist board about what was happening in Logroño and what to see (see me, see adventure, canny whack it).
I recieved a text from Mark stating that his left foot was in a bad way (and boy you should see the hole in the ball of the foot). I called and we decided that the best thing would be for me to join him in Santo Domingo de Calzada that day and we could walk together for a while. Hence back to the hostel, pack up the rucksack (forgot the towel which was still airing in the courtyard) and got the bus onwards. I will be 40km short of the full route but it was more important to be where I am than ask Mark to wait for two days for me to catch up.
Stayed the night in the oldest refugio on the Camino and left this morning late at 6.45am and arrived here at Belorado (20km) at about 1.00pm. Just about to go to the village to get some food (and a towel). About 35C just now but we have a swimming pool to go after shopping. Hope all of you are well.
best,
Arthur
Since there had been little if any sleep at Torres del Rio it was easy enough to start getting ready for the day ahead at 5.00am. Daniel produced coffee and some food (from where remains a secret) and we were off by 5.40am. It was a bit cold at the start but a few hills later we were nicely warm.
It is good walking at that time of the morning, you have the world to yourslef (and a few other walkers). The big moon was still giving us enough light to see the yellow arrows pointing the way to Santiago.
We arrived in Vianna at approx. 8.00am and stopped off for coffee and chirizo bocodillas in a seating area in front of the magnificent Santa Maria church. Again the ever resourceful Daniel produced a primus stove with pot, water, coffee and sugar.
Aside: The man is a marvel. I found out later he was carrying the best part of 20kg. I had to send stuff home to get down to a manageable 13kg.
Having been on the move for over 2 hours it was bliss sitting in front of this wonderful building having breakfast with other peregrinos. It has it´s own form of magic. You pay for it in sore feet but it is a package of memories and friendships that make it all worthwhile.
Leaving Vianna we moved onto Logroño, talking about life and the universe and at one point both of us singing "John Brown´s Body" to the world (without the aid of booze and at 10.00am). The world was not too impressed but we were having a good time.
We arrived in Logroño at about 11.00am, had a beer and then Daniel took his leave to go onto Navarette, a further 13km which I could not face, especially after the experience of the heat on day before. It was already 33C and about to get hotter.
I was sorry to say cheerio to Daniel, who had for a couple of days been a source of encouragement and good conversation.
I finally got to make my way to the main hostel, which unfortuneatly did not open until 2.30. By that time I was nicely roasted and the first thing was shower and then get the washing done. Whilst the clothes were spinning away I went out and about to get information from the local tourist board about what was happening in Logroño and what to see (see me, see adventure, canny whack it).
I recieved a text from Mark stating that his left foot was in a bad way (and boy you should see the hole in the ball of the foot). I called and we decided that the best thing would be for me to join him in Santo Domingo de Calzada that day and we could walk together for a while. Hence back to the hostel, pack up the rucksack (forgot the towel which was still airing in the courtyard) and got the bus onwards. I will be 40km short of the full route but it was more important to be where I am than ask Mark to wait for two days for me to catch up.
Stayed the night in the oldest refugio on the Camino and left this morning late at 6.45am and arrived here at Belorado (20km) at about 1.00pm. Just about to go to the village to get some food (and a towel). About 35C just now but we have a swimming pool to go after shopping. Hope all of you are well.
best,
Arthur
Monday, 30 July 2007
Mark´s Day 6
Sorry for not blogging yesterday but paradise does not have internet access. I will explain some other time.
Feet were in a bad state yesterday butthe left foot is now in disrepair. It has actually started unwrapping itself. You know what I mean. On arriving in Santo Domingo today, after a morning of bad, bad pain, I found that I had made the cardinal error of not looking after my feet and, as a consequence, around 10% of my left foot was badly blistered, or had lost the skin altogether.
I apologise to all those who have made donations but there is no way that I can continue on at the same pace now. I have to keep the ´wound´ clean and covered or I might get an infection.
I am pretty upset about not completing the Camino the way I had intended but there is absolutely nothing I can do about it now.
I will continue on, as best I can, and might actually get to enjoy it now.
Over to Arthur.
Later Dudes.
Feet were in a bad state yesterday butthe left foot is now in disrepair. It has actually started unwrapping itself. You know what I mean. On arriving in Santo Domingo today, after a morning of bad, bad pain, I found that I had made the cardinal error of not looking after my feet and, as a consequence, around 10% of my left foot was badly blistered, or had lost the skin altogether.
I apologise to all those who have made donations but there is no way that I can continue on at the same pace now. I have to keep the ´wound´ clean and covered or I might get an infection.
I am pretty upset about not completing the Camino the way I had intended but there is absolutely nothing I can do about it now.
I will continue on, as best I can, and might actually get to enjoy it now.
Over to Arthur.
Later Dudes.
Sleeping Under the Stars
Hi All,
Sounds great, at least it did to me when I found out that there were no beds at the hostel. After dinner we stayed around talking about all the things that people thrown together talk about and having a very relaxing time.
Sleeping time (10.00) arrived and we all got the "mattresses" down on the concrete balcony floor. The term mattress has to interpreted loosely, it was more of a gym mat than a mattress. I suffer from a lower back problem and need additional cushioning in a mattress to prevent getting back pain by morning. So I added the trusty thermamat I had been carrying but thought never to use. I also, eventually, doubled over the blanket we had been given to ward off an damp that would develop during the early morning and added that to the pile. So prepared to sleep. That was the difficult bit.
Yesterday was Sunday and that is a big day in Spain. When we all bedded down at 10pm (10 guys all on mattreses) there were kids playing football in the church playground. The usual screams, wails and shouts accompanied their delights with the Dad doing a good bit of encouragement. They finished about 11.30 but that did not do much good.
There are two churches in Torres del Rio (why I have no idea. there must be all of 200 people). Both churches have bells that ring on the hour and half hour. The timing of the chimes means that the BIG bells in the BIG church start and the smaller (not wee) bells in the second church kick in about 10seconds later. (I would like to know what fights there were about the order of the bells). During the day this was not noticed but at 10pm it takes on a resounding significance. It had an ever increasing significance at, 10.30, 11.00, 11.30, midnight, etc. etc. These bloody things are bloody loud and there was little if any sleep. There was a full moon and a veritable field of stars, of which I saw quite a lot. More later.
best,
Arthur
An Aside for Renee Bleau:
Renee: You were asking about body and mind and which is harder to control. Physically I am doing pretty well and managing to put the miles in without too much trouble (now that I have sent stuff home). The heat is an absolute killer and if anything that will be my physical undoing.
As to the mind there are two main issues.
The first is missing my wife Margaret and the three girls. I knew I would but did not realise just how much. It is a source of great support to know they are fully behind me on this trip but it is going to be a long time till I see them again (five weeks) and sometimes that weighs heavily.
The second is being out of the comfort zone.
I attended Spanish classes, 3 per week for 5 weeks, at Paisley. It was a great learning time as well as enjoyable and Victoria and Fernando are great teachers. I have been trying my best but my Scottish/Spanisg accent gets some weird looks. It was brought home forcibly to me last night when I went out to shop for food
in this wee village (Torres del Rio) and stood back and let Daniel (the super Frenchman I met that day) order the soup and pasta and chirizo etc. He did this with relative easy, even dicsussing with the grocer (it was a genuine hole in the wall shop out of the 18th Century) the different types of sauce he should have with the pasta, changing their decision on three or four occasions.
I could have probably got away with a straight order, though I ended up with two bloody bocadillos the other day, but could never have entered into such a coversation. It was at that point that I realised how much pressure I had been feeling about not being comfortable with my environment and how much easier this would be if I had a better grasp of the language and the culture. I am getting away with it because most of the other peregrinos speak excellent English and chip in to help out when I make a posterior of myself. So learn the language for real before coming out to do this type of thing.
Hope you are well.
best,
Arthur
Sounds great, at least it did to me when I found out that there were no beds at the hostel. After dinner we stayed around talking about all the things that people thrown together talk about and having a very relaxing time.
Sleeping time (10.00) arrived and we all got the "mattresses" down on the concrete balcony floor. The term mattress has to interpreted loosely, it was more of a gym mat than a mattress. I suffer from a lower back problem and need additional cushioning in a mattress to prevent getting back pain by morning. So I added the trusty thermamat I had been carrying but thought never to use. I also, eventually, doubled over the blanket we had been given to ward off an damp that would develop during the early morning and added that to the pile. So prepared to sleep. That was the difficult bit.
Yesterday was Sunday and that is a big day in Spain. When we all bedded down at 10pm (10 guys all on mattreses) there were kids playing football in the church playground. The usual screams, wails and shouts accompanied their delights with the Dad doing a good bit of encouragement. They finished about 11.30 but that did not do much good.
There are two churches in Torres del Rio (why I have no idea. there must be all of 200 people). Both churches have bells that ring on the hour and half hour. The timing of the chimes means that the BIG bells in the BIG church start and the smaller (not wee) bells in the second church kick in about 10seconds later. (I would like to know what fights there were about the order of the bells). During the day this was not noticed but at 10pm it takes on a resounding significance. It had an ever increasing significance at, 10.30, 11.00, 11.30, midnight, etc. etc. These bloody things are bloody loud and there was little if any sleep. There was a full moon and a veritable field of stars, of which I saw quite a lot. More later.
best,
Arthur
An Aside for Renee Bleau:
Renee: You were asking about body and mind and which is harder to control. Physically I am doing pretty well and managing to put the miles in without too much trouble (now that I have sent stuff home). The heat is an absolute killer and if anything that will be my physical undoing.
As to the mind there are two main issues.
The first is missing my wife Margaret and the three girls. I knew I would but did not realise just how much. It is a source of great support to know they are fully behind me on this trip but it is going to be a long time till I see them again (five weeks) and sometimes that weighs heavily.
The second is being out of the comfort zone.
I attended Spanish classes, 3 per week for 5 weeks, at Paisley. It was a great learning time as well as enjoyable and Victoria and Fernando are great teachers. I have been trying my best but my Scottish/Spanisg accent gets some weird looks. It was brought home forcibly to me last night when I went out to shop for food
in this wee village (Torres del Rio) and stood back and let Daniel (the super Frenchman I met that day) order the soup and pasta and chirizo etc. He did this with relative easy, even dicsussing with the grocer (it was a genuine hole in the wall shop out of the 18th Century) the different types of sauce he should have with the pasta, changing their decision on three or four occasions.
I could have probably got away with a straight order, though I ended up with two bloody bocadillos the other day, but could never have entered into such a coversation. It was at that point that I realised how much pressure I had been feeling about not being comfortable with my environment and how much easier this would be if I had a better grasp of the language and the culture. I am getting away with it because most of the other peregrinos speak excellent English and chip in to help out when I make a posterior of myself. So learn the language for real before coming out to do this type of thing.
Hope you are well.
best,
Arthur
Saturday, 28 July 2007
In Medieval Towns
Hi All,
Arrived in Puente la Reina yesterday and they were really "running the bulls". All the men were dressed in white with red scarves tied at neck and waist.
The main street was blocked off with gates at each sidestreet. The gates were slatted vertically so that people could step into the street to stand in front of the bulls and at the appropriate point, ie when the bull was about to mince them, jump back through the slat to saftey. It seemed to be the thing to get a monentary grasp of one of the horns as the bull passed by. I can admit to a wee panic when a bull came charging up the street and three people, me included, were trying to get back through the space designed for one.
Seems like everyone was having a good time.
Have to go, will add more later.
Back again on Sunday.
After frightening myself I booked into another huge hostel, 100 beds plus. It was fine except it kept more relaxed hours that the usual accommodation and a few of the residents got quite relaxed (as newts) and getting them to be quite was a bit of a job. Nevertheless got sufficient sleep to be up at 6.30 and on the road for 7.15 heading for Estelle.
Nothing much happened on the road except is got very hot. Made good time and arrived in Estelle about 1.30. Hung around for a couple of hours thinking that I would move on for another two hours but at 3.30 it was 38.5C so the decision was made for me.
Glad I did. Had a very pleasent time. Met Bob from Manchester, a really nice guy who had done part of the Camino before and was a font of knowledge about the way from Burgos to Leon. Seems it is easy enough if we get a reasonable temp whic seems not to be on the cards.
Went to visit the Church of San Pedro built in the 14th Century. Looks it too but very interesting. Had a special walk around the cloisters, reserved purely for the Pelegrinos (pilgrims that is).
Bed and awake at 4.45. More to do with the pushing on the mattress from the bunk below. Seems like one of the pelegrinos was upset by my nasal problems. Got organised and on the way to Los Arcos by 5.45.
About 4km out from Estelle there is a monastery which owns a vineyard and as part of the service to pilgrims there is a fountain for water and one for wine. In the books we have read, the wine is not supposed to start flowing until 10.30 but the monks have moved onto 24/7 service and I partook of a sample at approx. 6.30 and I have the photos to prove it. Not too bad either.
Moved on via the joyously cold morning, through vineyards on one side and hay fields on the other. The hay harvest is in but the grapes have a way to go yet.
Thankfully the sun took it´s time heating up the land and it was just about 11.00 that it started to get hot just as I arrived at Los Arcos.
The town is not as grandly medieval as Puente la Reina or Estelle but there is an aura that things have not moved on since the middle ages. Since it is Sunday the church bells were calling the faithful (and the faithless) to church. Two churchs ringing bells at the same time. It was strangely enjoyable.
After lunch I decided to push on and that was a bit of a mistake. I had unwittingly walked through the heat yesterday got away with ti so I thought I would push my luck a bit and go that extra 7km. I will not be doing that again.
Halfway along the road I met Daniel from Tarbes (Southern France near Pau). It really helped to be able to speak to someone (he of course speaks English, Spanish and German) to keep the thought of the heat at bay.
Arrived at Torres del Arcos to find that all the beds were gone but we could sleep on mattresses on the balcony. That is what is happening. Will let you know what the stars foretell tomorrow.
best,
Arthur
Arrived in Puente la Reina yesterday and they were really "running the bulls". All the men were dressed in white with red scarves tied at neck and waist.
The main street was blocked off with gates at each sidestreet. The gates were slatted vertically so that people could step into the street to stand in front of the bulls and at the appropriate point, ie when the bull was about to mince them, jump back through the slat to saftey. It seemed to be the thing to get a monentary grasp of one of the horns as the bull passed by. I can admit to a wee panic when a bull came charging up the street and three people, me included, were trying to get back through the space designed for one.
Seems like everyone was having a good time.
Have to go, will add more later.
Back again on Sunday.
After frightening myself I booked into another huge hostel, 100 beds plus. It was fine except it kept more relaxed hours that the usual accommodation and a few of the residents got quite relaxed (as newts) and getting them to be quite was a bit of a job. Nevertheless got sufficient sleep to be up at 6.30 and on the road for 7.15 heading for Estelle.
Nothing much happened on the road except is got very hot. Made good time and arrived in Estelle about 1.30. Hung around for a couple of hours thinking that I would move on for another two hours but at 3.30 it was 38.5C so the decision was made for me.
Glad I did. Had a very pleasent time. Met Bob from Manchester, a really nice guy who had done part of the Camino before and was a font of knowledge about the way from Burgos to Leon. Seems it is easy enough if we get a reasonable temp whic seems not to be on the cards.
Went to visit the Church of San Pedro built in the 14th Century. Looks it too but very interesting. Had a special walk around the cloisters, reserved purely for the Pelegrinos (pilgrims that is).
Bed and awake at 4.45. More to do with the pushing on the mattress from the bunk below. Seems like one of the pelegrinos was upset by my nasal problems. Got organised and on the way to Los Arcos by 5.45.
About 4km out from Estelle there is a monastery which owns a vineyard and as part of the service to pilgrims there is a fountain for water and one for wine. In the books we have read, the wine is not supposed to start flowing until 10.30 but the monks have moved onto 24/7 service and I partook of a sample at approx. 6.30 and I have the photos to prove it. Not too bad either.
Moved on via the joyously cold morning, through vineyards on one side and hay fields on the other. The hay harvest is in but the grapes have a way to go yet.
Thankfully the sun took it´s time heating up the land and it was just about 11.00 that it started to get hot just as I arrived at Los Arcos.
The town is not as grandly medieval as Puente la Reina or Estelle but there is an aura that things have not moved on since the middle ages. Since it is Sunday the church bells were calling the faithful (and the faithless) to church. Two churchs ringing bells at the same time. It was strangely enjoyable.
After lunch I decided to push on and that was a bit of a mistake. I had unwittingly walked through the heat yesterday got away with ti so I thought I would push my luck a bit and go that extra 7km. I will not be doing that again.
Halfway along the road I met Daniel from Tarbes (Southern France near Pau). It really helped to be able to speak to someone (he of course speaks English, Spanish and German) to keep the thought of the heat at bay.
Arrived at Torres del Arcos to find that all the beds were gone but we could sleep on mattresses on the balcony. That is what is happening. Will let you know what the stars foretell tomorrow.
best,
Arthur
Mark´s Day 4 (is it only 4 days?)
Ok just lost everything I had written and now have to do it again.
Summary: Started at 5:30am in the dark. Running brings on a sweat at that time as well. Didn´t get lost today. Country was hilly at first but then past Villamayor it becomes rolling farmland with no water available until Los Arcos (Arthur take note).
Should be awe struck by the lovely towns but I am more interested in the drinks machines that each one has, at the time. My apologises to the Architectural amongst you.
Renee has asked about the balance between physical and psychological ´trauma´ that this is bring on. I have to be honest. Right now, I can take the physical pain (and there is quite a bit of it already). The psychological stuff I am having more problems with. This is big and long and you are on your own. That is hard. You have far too much time to think. But, in rolling up my sleeves and getting on with it, it should make me (and I am sure it is the same for Arthur) a stronger person.
Physically, the roll call is:
Right hip getting worse
Part of left shoulder that I can´t put rucsac on
Getting pain in right ankle (just for you Mike Mason)
Both heels are a mess. Blisters almost covering their circumference (taking orthotics out tomorrow to see if that helps).
Did calculation when going through Estella this morning. 22 miles gets me to Santiago in either 21 or 22 days (depends on which mileage you believe). I will stick to getting up early and trying to get my days quota in by 1pm.
Naverette tomorrow.
Later Dudes
Summary: Started at 5:30am in the dark. Running brings on a sweat at that time as well. Didn´t get lost today. Country was hilly at first but then past Villamayor it becomes rolling farmland with no water available until Los Arcos (Arthur take note).
Should be awe struck by the lovely towns but I am more interested in the drinks machines that each one has, at the time. My apologises to the Architectural amongst you.
Renee has asked about the balance between physical and psychological ´trauma´ that this is bring on. I have to be honest. Right now, I can take the physical pain (and there is quite a bit of it already). The psychological stuff I am having more problems with. This is big and long and you are on your own. That is hard. You have far too much time to think. But, in rolling up my sleeves and getting on with it, it should make me (and I am sure it is the same for Arthur) a stronger person.
Physically, the roll call is:
Right hip getting worse
Part of left shoulder that I can´t put rucsac on
Getting pain in right ankle (just for you Mike Mason)
Both heels are a mess. Blisters almost covering their circumference (taking orthotics out tomorrow to see if that helps).
Did calculation when going through Estella this morning. 22 miles gets me to Santiago in either 21 or 22 days (depends on which mileage you believe). I will stick to getting up early and trying to get my days quota in by 1pm.
Naverette tomorrow.
Later Dudes
Friday, 27 July 2007
Hot and Hotter
Hi All,
Been putting in the miles and most of the time it has been very enjoyable if a mite tiring especially with the heat. As Mark points out it is a killer.
Made it to near Panmplona yesterday but it near finished me. No more of that. I offloaded some stuff back to home. Not much, just three pounds but what a difference in how I feel. Didn´t exactly fly along but the step was a bit lighter.
Had the chance to spend some time in Pamplona this morning (waiting on the Post Office opening at 8.30). Had been there before on a few occasions with Ewan MacArthur nad Chris Irgens on a European project. Lovely place and the very image of Ols Spain. Got lost twice though which meant I had to make up time during the really hot part of the day, 1.30 - 4.00. Not doing that again.
Staying in a hotel tonight which has a peregrino section, ie the cheap 8 euros a night section. Still it is a bed and pleanty of room unlike the other three in whcih we have stayed.
Will catch up later. The money is running out on the computer I have access to.
best,
Arthur.
Been putting in the miles and most of the time it has been very enjoyable if a mite tiring especially with the heat. As Mark points out it is a killer.
Made it to near Panmplona yesterday but it near finished me. No more of that. I offloaded some stuff back to home. Not much, just three pounds but what a difference in how I feel. Didn´t exactly fly along but the step was a bit lighter.
Had the chance to spend some time in Pamplona this morning (waiting on the Post Office opening at 8.30). Had been there before on a few occasions with Ewan MacArthur nad Chris Irgens on a European project. Lovely place and the very image of Ols Spain. Got lost twice though which meant I had to make up time during the really hot part of the day, 1.30 - 4.00. Not doing that again.
Staying in a hotel tonight which has a peregrino section, ie the cheap 8 euros a night section. Still it is a bed and pleanty of room unlike the other three in whcih we have stayed.
Will catch up later. The money is running out on the computer I have access to.
best,
Arthur.
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