Thursday 16 August 2007

Getting higher

Hi,
Greg and I left Astorga a bit later than usual due mainly to me having difficulty getting out of bed and then making a complete mess of packing the rucksack.

I had to stop about three times to get it sorted. greg is a patient man.

Aside: John (who owns the rucksack), you need a new one.

This is the point on this trip when you start the climb into Galicia. Not too bad a walk, nice day and lovely scenery. The other thing that is noticeable is the different house construction. In the maseta there are lots of mud and brick constructions but moving further out of that zone you will find more and more stone being used. It is also obvious that the changes in house construction reflect a change in the economic activity of the area.

Arrived at Rabanal del Camino which has one of the most delighgtful alberques on the road. The albergue was a wreck of a place until the Confraternity of St. James (an English institution dedicated to supporting the Camino concept) decided to spend some serious pennies on it. It is very rustic, quite religious with a retreat house attached and Gregorian Chant services to end the evening. It has a huge garden which was just what was needed to help us relax. We were also getting to higher terrain the weather became more pleasent and this helped a lot.

Aside: Did I say that each afternoon on the walk we arrive approximately at 1.30pm (we do start awfully early though), get showered, wash the clothes and relax with beer and sardines and bread followed with a snooze. Tough old life let me tell you.

This albergue is "manned" by volunteers, each set are there for about two to three weeks at a time. This beats the hell out of Benidorme any day. The three female volunteers were very welcoming to everyone and set the tone for the relaxed time we had there.

Ina ddition to meeting our first American (and her Flemish partenr) we met a young couple from Ireland who decided that they would stay in the retreat house for a couple of days spiritual devotion, support by the three monks who life there permanently. Seems this happens all the time.

Anyway, again to bed at 10.00pm. The doors get locked at that time and if you are not in, you are not getting in.

Next morning the big climb and the bigger descent awaited.

More later.

best,
Arthur

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