Tuesday 31 July 2007

Mark´s Day 7 (The Holiday begins)

So, I am a walker now. The shame of it :->

Hobbling about a bit this morning until I took off the dressing that the Monk in Santo Domingo Monastery had put on my foot and put my own on. The Ancient might have been an incredibly caring and compassionate soul but he knew sod all about padding up a foot.

He did say I should rest a couple of days but when I said that I would walk on he said that I was a ´Warrior´. Thought Mike Mason might like to here that :-> Hamilton, star of film and now the Catholic Church has bestowed the honour of ´Warrior of St. James´upon him.

Result!

Arthur Loughran put his on plans aside and bused through to Santo Domingo last night in order that we can spend the next ten or so days walking together. As I can´t now complete the Camino the way I wanted to, I am more than happy to do this.

Today we set off at 6:30am from Santo Domingo, through the crop fields of La Rioja and now into Burgos region, in the burning sun.

We have just had a beer and sandwich and on checking the Thermostat and it was 26 degrees in the bar. God knows what it is outside.

The companionship is great, particularly now when I have failed in carrying out my plans. Still trying to work out why my feet and hips and brain have reacted the way they have. Perhaps, 129 miles with 20lbs on my back, in temp. of over 35 degrees celcius might have something to do with it. Feel a bit gutted still.

I have a new found respect for those unfit, infirm and disabled folk that I see on this route. No matter that they go less far every day and go slower, or get someone to lighten their load for them. They still cover the same ground as me, in the same heat and you must believe me, THIS IS NOT EASY. This is a test for anyone. Especially those that do it alone and must draw on their inner strengths to keep them going.

But as I say, Arthur has kindly joined me and we soldier on. Two blokes, talking a load of old toot On the Road to Santiago.

To Logroño and beyond

Hi All,
Since there had been little if any sleep at Torres del Rio it was easy enough to start getting ready for the day ahead at 5.00am. Daniel produced coffee and some food (from where remains a secret) and we were off by 5.40am. It was a bit cold at the start but a few hills later we were nicely warm.

It is good walking at that time of the morning, you have the world to yourslef (and a few other walkers). The big moon was still giving us enough light to see the yellow arrows pointing the way to Santiago.

We arrived in Vianna at approx. 8.00am and stopped off for coffee and chirizo bocodillas in a seating area in front of the magnificent Santa Maria church. Again the ever resourceful Daniel produced a primus stove with pot, water, coffee and sugar.

Aside: The man is a marvel. I found out later he was carrying the best part of 20kg. I had to send stuff home to get down to a manageable 13kg.

Having been on the move for over 2 hours it was bliss sitting in front of this wonderful building having breakfast with other peregrinos. It has it´s own form of magic. You pay for it in sore feet but it is a package of memories and friendships that make it all worthwhile.

Leaving Vianna we moved onto Logroño, talking about life and the universe and at one point both of us singing "John Brown´s Body" to the world (without the aid of booze and at 10.00am). The world was not too impressed but we were having a good time.

We arrived in Logroño at about 11.00am, had a beer and then Daniel took his leave to go onto Navarette, a further 13km which I could not face, especially after the experience of the heat on day before. It was already 33C and about to get hotter.

I was sorry to say cheerio to Daniel, who had for a couple of days been a source of encouragement and good conversation.

I finally got to make my way to the main hostel, which unfortuneatly did not open until 2.30. By that time I was nicely roasted and the first thing was shower and then get the washing done. Whilst the clothes were spinning away I went out and about to get information from the local tourist board about what was happening in Logroño and what to see (see me, see adventure, canny whack it).

I recieved a text from Mark stating that his left foot was in a bad way (and boy you should see the hole in the ball of the foot). I called and we decided that the best thing would be for me to join him in Santo Domingo de Calzada that day and we could walk together for a while. Hence back to the hostel, pack up the rucksack (forgot the towel which was still airing in the courtyard) and got the bus onwards. I will be 40km short of the full route but it was more important to be where I am than ask Mark to wait for two days for me to catch up.

Stayed the night in the oldest refugio on the Camino and left this morning late at 6.45am and arrived here at Belorado (20km) at about 1.00pm. Just about to go to the village to get some food (and a towel). About 35C just now but we have a swimming pool to go after shopping. Hope all of you are well.
best,
Arthur

Monday 30 July 2007

Mark´s Day 6

Sorry for not blogging yesterday but paradise does not have internet access. I will explain some other time.

Feet were in a bad state yesterday butthe left foot is now in disrepair. It has actually started unwrapping itself. You know what I mean. On arriving in Santo Domingo today, after a morning of bad, bad pain, I found that I had made the cardinal error of not looking after my feet and, as a consequence, around 10% of my left foot was badly blistered, or had lost the skin altogether.

I apologise to all those who have made donations but there is no way that I can continue on at the same pace now. I have to keep the ´wound´ clean and covered or I might get an infection.

I am pretty upset about not completing the Camino the way I had intended but there is absolutely nothing I can do about it now.

I will continue on, as best I can, and might actually get to enjoy it now.

Over to Arthur.

Later Dudes.

Sleeping Under the Stars

Hi All,
Sounds great, at least it did to me when I found out that there were no beds at the hostel. After dinner we stayed around talking about all the things that people thrown together talk about and having a very relaxing time.

Sleeping time (10.00) arrived and we all got the "mattresses" down on the concrete balcony floor. The term mattress has to interpreted loosely, it was more of a gym mat than a mattress. I suffer from a lower back problem and need additional cushioning in a mattress to prevent getting back pain by morning. So I added the trusty thermamat I had been carrying but thought never to use. I also, eventually, doubled over the blanket we had been given to ward off an damp that would develop during the early morning and added that to the pile. So prepared to sleep. That was the difficult bit.

Yesterday was Sunday and that is a big day in Spain. When we all bedded down at 10pm (10 guys all on mattreses) there were kids playing football in the church playground. The usual screams, wails and shouts accompanied their delights with the Dad doing a good bit of encouragement. They finished about 11.30 but that did not do much good.

There are two churches in Torres del Rio (why I have no idea. there must be all of 200 people). Both churches have bells that ring on the hour and half hour. The timing of the chimes means that the BIG bells in the BIG church start and the smaller (not wee) bells in the second church kick in about 10seconds later. (I would like to know what fights there were about the order of the bells). During the day this was not noticed but at 10pm it takes on a resounding significance. It had an ever increasing significance at, 10.30, 11.00, 11.30, midnight, etc. etc. These bloody things are bloody loud and there was little if any sleep. There was a full moon and a veritable field of stars, of which I saw quite a lot. More later.
best,
Arthur

An Aside for Renee Bleau:
Renee: You were asking about body and mind and which is harder to control. Physically I am doing pretty well and managing to put the miles in without too much trouble (now that I have sent stuff home). The heat is an absolute killer and if anything that will be my physical undoing.

As to the mind there are two main issues.

The first is missing my wife Margaret and the three girls. I knew I would but did not realise just how much. It is a source of great support to know they are fully behind me on this trip but it is going to be a long time till I see them again (five weeks) and sometimes that weighs heavily.

The second is being out of the comfort zone.

I attended Spanish classes, 3 per week for 5 weeks, at Paisley. It was a great learning time as well as enjoyable and Victoria and Fernando are great teachers. I have been trying my best but my Scottish/Spanisg accent gets some weird looks. It was brought home forcibly to me last night when I went out to shop for food
in this wee village (Torres del Rio) and stood back and let Daniel (the super Frenchman I met that day) order the soup and pasta and chirizo etc. He did this with relative easy, even dicsussing with the grocer (it was a genuine hole in the wall shop out of the 18th Century) the different types of sauce he should have with the pasta, changing their decision on three or four occasions.

I could have probably got away with a straight order, though I ended up with two bloody bocadillos the other day, but could never have entered into such a coversation. It was at that point that I realised how much pressure I had been feeling about not being comfortable with my environment and how much easier this would be if I had a better grasp of the language and the culture. I am getting away with it because most of the other peregrinos speak excellent English and chip in to help out when I make a posterior of myself. So learn the language for real before coming out to do this type of thing.
Hope you are well.
best,
Arthur

Saturday 28 July 2007

In Medieval Towns

Hi All,
Arrived in Puente la Reina yesterday and they were really "running the bulls". All the men were dressed in white with red scarves tied at neck and waist.

The main street was blocked off with gates at each sidestreet. The gates were slatted vertically so that people could step into the street to stand in front of the bulls and at the appropriate point, ie when the bull was about to mince them, jump back through the slat to saftey. It seemed to be the thing to get a monentary grasp of one of the horns as the bull passed by. I can admit to a wee panic when a bull came charging up the street and three people, me included, were trying to get back through the space designed for one.

Seems like everyone was having a good time.

Have to go, will add more later.

Back again on Sunday.
After frightening myself I booked into another huge hostel, 100 beds plus. It was fine except it kept more relaxed hours that the usual accommodation and a few of the residents got quite relaxed (as newts) and getting them to be quite was a bit of a job. Nevertheless got sufficient sleep to be up at 6.30 and on the road for 7.15 heading for Estelle.

Nothing much happened on the road except is got very hot. Made good time and arrived in Estelle about 1.30. Hung around for a couple of hours thinking that I would move on for another two hours but at 3.30 it was 38.5C so the decision was made for me.

Glad I did. Had a very pleasent time. Met Bob from Manchester, a really nice guy who had done part of the Camino before and was a font of knowledge about the way from Burgos to Leon. Seems it is easy enough if we get a reasonable temp whic seems not to be on the cards.

Went to visit the Church of San Pedro built in the 14th Century. Looks it too but very interesting. Had a special walk around the cloisters, reserved purely for the Pelegrinos (pilgrims that is).

Bed and awake at 4.45. More to do with the pushing on the mattress from the bunk below. Seems like one of the pelegrinos was upset by my nasal problems. Got organised and on the way to Los Arcos by 5.45.

About 4km out from Estelle there is a monastery which owns a vineyard and as part of the service to pilgrims there is a fountain for water and one for wine. In the books we have read, the wine is not supposed to start flowing until 10.30 but the monks have moved onto 24/7 service and I partook of a sample at approx. 6.30 and I have the photos to prove it. Not too bad either.

Moved on via the joyously cold morning, through vineyards on one side and hay fields on the other. The hay harvest is in but the grapes have a way to go yet.

Thankfully the sun took it´s time heating up the land and it was just about 11.00 that it started to get hot just as I arrived at Los Arcos.

The town is not as grandly medieval as Puente la Reina or Estelle but there is an aura that things have not moved on since the middle ages. Since it is Sunday the church bells were calling the faithful (and the faithless) to church. Two churchs ringing bells at the same time. It was strangely enjoyable.

After lunch I decided to push on and that was a bit of a mistake. I had unwittingly walked through the heat yesterday got away with ti so I thought I would push my luck a bit and go that extra 7km. I will not be doing that again.

Halfway along the road I met Daniel from Tarbes (Southern France near Pau). It really helped to be able to speak to someone (he of course speaks English, Spanish and German) to keep the thought of the heat at bay.

Arrived at Torres del Arcos to find that all the beds were gone but we could sleep on mattresses on the balcony. That is what is happening. Will let you know what the stars foretell tomorrow.
best,
Arthur

Mark´s Day 4 (is it only 4 days?)


Ok just lost everything I had written and now have to do it again.

Summary: Started at 5:30am in the dark. Running brings on a sweat at that time as well. Didn´t get lost today. Country was hilly at first but then past Villamayor it becomes rolling farmland with no water available until Los Arcos (Arthur take note).

Should be awe struck by the lovely towns but I am more interested in the drinks machines that each one has, at the time. My apologises to the Architectural amongst you.

Renee has asked about the balance between physical and psychological ´trauma´ that this is bring on. I have to be honest. Right now, I can take the physical pain (and there is quite a bit of it already). The psychological stuff I am having more problems with. This is big and long and you are on your own. That is hard. You have far too much time to think. But, in rolling up my sleeves and getting on with it, it should make me (and I am sure it is the same for Arthur) a stronger person.

Physically, the roll call is:

Right hip getting worse
Part of left shoulder that I can´t put rucsac on
Getting pain in right ankle (just for you Mike Mason)
Both heels are a mess. Blisters almost covering their circumference (taking orthotics out tomorrow to see if that helps).

Did calculation when going through Estella this morning. 22 miles gets me to Santiago in either 21 or 22 days (depends on which mileage you believe). I will stick to getting up early and trying to get my days quota in by 1pm.

Naverette tomorrow.

Later Dudes

Friday 27 July 2007

Hot and Hotter

Hi All,
Been putting in the miles and most of the time it has been very enjoyable if a mite tiring especially with the heat. As Mark points out it is a killer.

Made it to near Panmplona yesterday but it near finished me. No more of that. I offloaded some stuff back to home. Not much, just three pounds but what a difference in how I feel. Didn´t exactly fly along but the step was a bit lighter.

Had the chance to spend some time in Pamplona this morning (waiting on the Post Office opening at 8.30). Had been there before on a few occasions with Ewan MacArthur nad Chris Irgens on a European project. Lovely place and the very image of Ols Spain. Got lost twice though which meant I had to make up time during the really hot part of the day, 1.30 - 4.00. Not doing that again.

Staying in a hotel tonight which has a peregrino section, ie the cheap 8 euros a night section. Still it is a bed and pleanty of room unlike the other three in whcih we have stayed.

Will catch up later. The money is running out on the computer I have access to.

best,
Arthur.

Mark´s Day 3

Me after beating cyclists down hill.


Ok. So I have made a terrible mis-calculation when drawing up my schedule. The Heat and its effects.

It is burning here in the afternoon. Just before 1pm you get a blast of heat that just sends the alarm bells ring in my head and drains me of energy.

So, I have had to go back to the schedule and draw it up so that I am finished for the day around 2pm. Starting at 6am-ish that isn´t a lot of time considering the terrain at times. I am setting my sights on Burgos on the 8th day now, not the 7th.

Today was good. Got lost right at the start. But it was only for 30 mins this time. Then we hit the road through Pamplona which went past pretty quickly, and on into the countryside. WHW like once again. I was over taking people like nobodies business. Even over took two cyclists coming off a big hill down towards Utrega. They didn´t catch me up until two towns later.

The countryside is stunning and very Spanish :-> Medieval looking towns sit on hill tops. Unfortunately, these are the ones that the route wants us to go through.

There is a festival under way in Puente La Reina tonight. A lovely town and it looks like everyone will have fun, but my sights were set on Cirauqui (my 36km for the day). After Puente, the heat hit. Boy, did it hit. And I had a 450ft climb to do. IT WAS DAMN HARD.

I stopped in Maneru to have food but it was really just to get out of the heat and get some fluids in. 45 mins later, feel slightly better I set off for the final 25 mins to Cirauqui. In a lovely Alberque tonight. Been lucky with those so far.

So, 62 miles in. 3 days down. Missing everyone like you wouldn´t believe. Hips sore, shoulders sore. Feet taking some damage. Beginning to suffer like a real pilgrim.

My reward will be in Heaven.

Oh, by the way. Donations. Get them in. The boys are doing it. My God, are we doing it. If you can, give Mercy Ships some dosh (That was my Bob Geldof bit. Impressive eh.)

Will hopefully blog from Los Arcos tomorrow. Oh, look at that. More hills in the way. Marvelous!

Johnnydx was asking about what motivates us. For me it is that Pauline will be in Santiago on the 17th. I will be there too. Enough said. Although The Proclaimers are helping as the Peregrinos were serenaded with it again today after I over took those cyclists. Wimps!

BTW, BBC weather puts the temp today at 30 degrees (86 F). Oh God, it could get hotter.

Later Dudes.

Thursday 26 July 2007

Mark´s Day 2

Well, what a day!

We, Arthur and I, that today would be run day for me as I needed to get to the outskirts of Pamplona today. That´s a distance of 24 miles.

So, we set off from Roncesvalles at just before 7 O´Clock towards Burgette where we were going to buy breakfast. Then it was time to say our cheery byes. It seemed a big thing to be setting off in a foriegn country, not speaking the lingo on my own and I am sure that Arthur felt the same (although he was probably glad to see the back of me as well).

Sections of todays route were so like the West Highland Way that it was incredible. Almost spooky. I made good time as I plodded along.

Now, the weather forecast in Roncesvalles had said that it was going to be about 25 degrees celcius. Great I thought last night. This morning at 9:30am however, I was cursing the weather forecasters for their incompetance.

The temperature grew and grew although it was still feeling ok as reached Zubiri at around 10:30am. What didn´t feel good was getting lost at that point and taking about 45 mins to find my way back to the Camino. My bubble was well and truly burst at that point but still managed to pick myself up and get on with it when I saw the sign saying ´Arre 12 km´. They have that wrong. No sodding way was it 12km. What made it worse was that as 12 noon came and went the heat got into the uncomfortable zone, particularly if you have almost 20lbs strapped to your back.

But I eventually made it down to Trindad de Arre at around 2pm thanks in no small part to a rousing chorus of (I´m gonna be) 500 miles.

Change of plans from now on but I will update you later.

Later Dudes

Wednesday 25 July 2007

The start

Hi everyone,
Met some really nice people last night in St. Jean, people from Denmark, Holland (there are millions of people from Holland), Germany and France. The linga franca was English. Lovely food for those that like vegetarian fare, especially if you like spinach. I hate the stuff, with a vengence. The main course was followed by a Sangria type dessert and mint tea. How awful could a meal get (for me).

Set off in the mist at 7.30 after a hearty breakfast of Sugar Puffs, bread and jam and coffee. Fairly sets you up for 26km walk over a 4500ft mountain.

It wasn`t all that bad but it was a long haul. If you have walked up Ben Lomond and are reasonably fit you will be able to do this, pretty weary at the end though. In truth, even the flat bits were inclined. We are told that this is as bad as it gets so that will be a bonus. As to the bag, I am carrying a tad more than I should but it was OK for the first 8kms. Then after a bit the extra weight began to tell but you can´t dump it off in the middle of the road. So onwards and for most of the day it was 21km upwards with the final 4km downwards.

The views are stunning and for those who love horses there are hundreds of horses roaming free over the hills (big hills mind you). I have photos of the walk but can´t put them on the blog because we are at a machine that has been protected against uploads.

Staying in the refugio in Roncevalles, huge place, 114 beds all in the one hall. I feel really sorry for all these peole because I do Olympic snoring. There is one shower and it is cold. This walk can be character building.

Tomorrow it is Pamplona for Mark, it is as near as I can get to Pamplona for me. Off for a well earned beer.
best,
Arthur

Mark´s Day One


Greetings from Spain.

We start off late this morning. Give us a break, it´s our first day.

The guides, and some people, have said that the first day is the worst. They weren´t running though. I walked the Camino with Arthur today. 14 miles, St. Jean to Roncesvalles and a lot of climbing. It was demanding. A good stretch of the legs you might say but hardly a near impossible feat. Certain sections of the climb, particularly between St. Jean and Orrison were quite tiring, but a steady pace get´s you through.

The country we are passing through is stunningly gorgeous, and although very hot, it is not the furnace temps forecast...so far.

So, we are kipping in the Monastery of Roncesvalles tonight and then off towards Pamplona tomorrow.

Wish us luck.

Oh, before I forget, and Arthur does his piece, yesterday after a couple of beers in Bayonne he said his pack was feeling fine (and made ´light´ gestures). Wonder what he will say in his blog.

My best and Love to everyone back home in wet and cold Blighty.

Later Dudes


Sunday 22 July 2007

Weighty Problems

There are those of us who try not to pay too much attention to the additional pounds that come with advancing years. No matter how hard we try, the pounds don’t go away. Well I am now having the same problem with ounces.

For the sake of the young I will continue in kilograms and grammes.

Mark and I have to carry all that we may need for the duration of the trip. We are advised to carry no more than 10% body weight and for me that means 8.5kg.
The essentials are a rucksack (0.5kg), 3lts of water (3kg), sleeping bag (0.75kg) and sleeping roll (0.5kg). This leaves 3.75kg for creature comforts, such as clothes.

This may seem a lot but right now I am looking at a mound on the dining room table and I have no idea what is going to go. I have already set aside extra socks Down to three pairs (inner and outer), one T-shirt and two books I was really looking forward to reading.

If we could guarantee sunshine all the way I could get rid of the wet weather stuff (0.75kg) but apparently when we get to Galicia we get to the rain and big bits of rain at that.

If I gave up washing and shaving that would save 1.25kg (including towel) but I am not sure that that would endear me overmuch with my fellow travellers.

If I can be sure of not getting sick or only mildly so, I could give up the medicine kit (0.75kg) but hey, it is heavy hiking in 34 degrees C, different food, different water and the odds are that sprains, cuts and sickness will be part of the experience (whoopee). Which reminds me, the sun block needs to added, more weight.

We are now left with 1kg and a lot of that will be taken up with the light weight camera, MP3 player, phone and all the chargers (and conversion plugs) that go with this technology.

We are down to a choice of a walking pole, a knife, a torch, maps, guide books and a journal to record reflections on the journey. All but the books and journal (1kg) have to go with me.

So you can see the problem, stay clean, stay healthy or get lost in Northern Spain and do my PDP.

Answer in the comments field will be greatly appreciated.

Saturday 21 July 2007

Final Test Run

Hamilton here.

This morning ran back home from Failford on the River Ayr Way. I have a feeling that the Camino will be similar to the RAW apart from its pointy bits i.e. mountains and hills. The RAW is a little lacking in these.

By the way, there will be a 42 mile Ultra-Marathon on this route on the 18th August. Please get behind this event and support it as I want to do it next year.

Anyway, I returned home in 2 hrs 53 mins. The distance is just under 16 miles. Considering the rucsac was full and I had my bumbag on, so I must have been at full weight, I am really happy with that. If anything I need to slow it down a little. I must always bear in mind the next day and the next and the next.

It was a good confidence boost coming on the back of checking the weather for next week and seeing that it is a mixture of scorching, hot days and warm days with drizzle. Brilliant. I'll take that. That is much better than 95 degrees for days on end.

Arthur has just phoned to say that he has booked us into a Refugio for Tuesday night and that dinner and breakfast is also booked. All this for under €20. Result! Nice one Arfur.

Later Dudes

Sunday 15 July 2007

A Trial Amble (I don’t do running)

I decided that it was about time to test out my stamina and so packed 16lbs into the trusty 5lb rucksack and set out to walk from Drymen to Balmaha and back. The main reason for choosing this route was to go over Conic Hill.

Aside 1: I met a lady as she descended to the Balmaha side of Conic Hill and she was so agitated at the necessity of crossing over Conic Hill that she could not easily find the words to describe her anger. Finally after many starts and stops she managed in her frustration to condemn it to perdition by the term "that bloody 1000ft obstruction".

Aside 2: In my family we refer to Conic Hill as Mount Conic. It was so renamed by my brother-in-law, John Moore, who once (and once only) trudged over it with 40lbs on his back. If I say he’s from Bradford, would that explain it?

Anyway back to Saturday. Much to my extreme annoyance, the WHW over Conic was closed due to tree felling operations. Was there any announcement on the WHW home page?

Having introduced the local wildlife to a range of terms, oft referred to as “engineering language”, I decided that a round trip between Balmaha and Rowerdennan would have to suffice.

The day was dull but that suited the task in foot. The view from the top of Craigie Fort was as superb as ever. For me this panorama is worth the trip alone.



Aside 3: Sorry but this is the only photo I have just now. Having my head sitting on top of Ben Lomond kinda spoils the view.

Met a few people on the way but conversation was not on my agenda at that time so a courtesy, “Aye, mornin'” was the extent of my communication. Grumpy, moi?

I passed by a lot of very damp campers who had had to endure the Friday night deluge. Some sorry washed out sights, the worst being a group of six young guys who had decided that a weekend camping at Loch Lomond would be a great way to spend the Glasgow Fair weekend. They were retreating to the city as I passed in the opposite direction.

I must admit that I am not drawn to camping as a way of engaging with the great outdoors. If I am going to sleep in a tent I prefer to do so in one of the marquee variety, especially those that have a bar as standard fitting.

Got to Rowerdennan after about 2.5 hours which was not too bad giving me a speed of approximately 2.8 miles per hour (4.8km). My target speed for Spain is 4km per hour.

Had lunch (bread with salamiiiii) and a cup of the best tea in the world. It is always the best tea in the world at a hiking lunch break. Also it is so nice to sit near the jetty at Rowerdennan. All the head numbing mince just disappears and you are left with the views and the peace to enjoy being there.

One half hour and one banana later (advised by himself that I need the potassium) I set off on the return leg.

Had more time to speak with people on the return journey.

Met a father and daughter team from Brussels and a couple from Holland. They were having a great time and thought we were so lucky to have all of these beautiful mountains. I didn’t mention the Devil’s Staircase or the climb out of Kinlochleven (or God forbid, the descent into Kinlochleven).

I met a lone walker, from Europe, who said that it was so thoughtful of the Scots to put all of these sheep on the mountains in order to keep the grass down and so make the mountains look nicer. This is true.

Another interesting moment was when I was asked for directions to Dumbarton by a couple driving towards Rowerdennan. It really was not their day.

Arrived back in Balmaha in 3.5 hours with tired legs and a “nippy” back. This is more the rate at which I plan to progress in Spain but I will have to factor in a couple of more miles per day (16 miles on average) and a modest 30 degree Fahrenheit difference in temperature. That will have an effect.

Arrived home and decided to practice some more Spanish walking exercises. The beer tasted just fine.

Saturday 14 July 2007

Rucsac Test

Loaded up Ellen's rucsac this morning and went for a run. Only missing a few items from the sac so could only have been a couple of kilos under what it will be. It felt fine. I think the fact that I usually do my shorter runs with a rucsac (not as heavy as this though) has helped.

So, I did 8 miles in about 75 mins and felt strong. Could have gone further but still recovering from WHW 07 which was only three weeks ago.

This is a great relief as I am thinking I might be able to add a couple of paperbacks to the list for Spain. Result!

Legend of the WHW Race Jim Drummond is, as I type, in Colorado taking part in the Hardrock 100 race. 100 miles long and with 33,000 ft of incline along the way. Jim is a physiological miracle...and a looney. I don't know how the guy does it. An inspiration.

Thursday 12 July 2007

Starting to get excited?

Starting to feel that something big is just around the corner. Went for a short run tonight. Just 6 miles. Legs still feel tired. That's a bit of a worry. All the time I was out it was negative thoughts. 'Legs feel tired after 4 miles. Oh God!'. 'Feels really warm. It's 20 degrees hotter out there!'. 'This is just one run. You want to do 4 times this distance...and do it for 20 consecutive days?'.

Then I finished my run and decided that it didn't matter what the Camino had I store for me, I could still give it a good kicking and went off to have my dinner.

Encouragement. Interesting word. To give courage. To empower another person. That's what all the donations and good wishes messages that Arthur and myself are receiving are doing. They are giving us the drive to put our feet and backs and lungs and legs etc, where our mouths are. Thanks everyone. Whether you are WHW 'Family' member, relative, colleague, friends, whatever, we deeply appreciate your support and would hope that you will continue your support by leaving messages for us, during our adventure, via the comments section of the blog. I know for a fact the lift you can get from a simple bit of encouragement when you feel totally and utterly spent.

Later Dudes

Wednesday 11 July 2007

Back from Skye

If you haven't been, then you must go. Stunning.

Great training exercise...of a sort. Well you need to let yourself recover sometimes. Managed one run of roughly one hour. The rest of the time was Beer, food, Beer, walking, Beer, cards, Beer and talking a load of old toot. We also managed to visit a couple of breweries which was nice. It was good to spend a relaxing weekend with our chums Paul and Marie Ann Walker.

The drive up allowed Pauline and myself to drop in on good friend and WHW Babe, Ellen Thomson in Cove. It was smashing to catch up with Ellen. We were running late but still stayed much longer than we should as we were having such a nice time. Laura's tea also made it difficult to drag ourselves out.

While there, Ellen passed on her Mountain Marathon rucsac that will probably be my ever present companion in Spain. Last Helly Hansen T-Shirt showed up over the weekend, Pauline organised the Travel Insurance, so, I am only waiting on converter plugs and some 'over the counter' drugs and we are good to go.

Arthur, having recovered from his old age aches and pains (his words) has still to get a few minor things together, eg rucksack, sleeping bag, T-shirts, trousers, money etc but hey, he is going and that is what he cares about.

Later Dudes

Friday 6 July 2007

The long and winding road

Hamilton here.





The above is a nice wee map of the complete route and below is the schedule I HOPE to follow. Click on the images to expand the view.



The first week looks the worst to me even though it is not as much as the second week. Funny that. There is a problem with this schedule however. The fastidious amongst you will have carried out a quick total and found it only comes to 466 miles.

In preparing for this, Arthur and myself have looked at various websites, books etc for information. Each one of these lexicons of 'The Way' would contain a different mileage calculation. Not just in total but also the distances between Towns and Cities.

This could be soul destroying. Set out on what you think is a 28 mile run only to find that it takes you a hour longer than it should day after day after day. Not good. It will also mean that additional water and grub will have to be carried 'just in case'.

Of course, I won't be complaining if it turns out to be 466 rather 480-ish miles.

The one day I will chuckle will be the day I leave Carrion. The walking pilgrim does not like this part as it is 24 miles to the next town. So, they have to walk a whole 24 miles in the one day (poor Arthur!). However, it is on a plateau so I am off. That is the one night I am guaranteed a bed. Result!

Later Dudes

Wednesday 4 July 2007

Ola!

Hello. Hamilton signing in.

Arthur has started this thing rolling so I guess I had better post something. As he said, a week and half ago I, and a lot of friends, ran the West Highland Way Race. It was its usually mixture of highs and lows. Mostly highs this year, I am pleased to say. No broken bones this time and the weather, generally, was very kind to us.

So, I finished in just under 25 hours which is alright for a race that just destroys some people. Most participants would rest up for a couple weeks afterwards...I don't have that luxury. I gave myself four days rest and then hit the pavement once again. My knees are really sore right now so I am keeping the mileage down and, really, I'm just keeping things moving.

Although the plan is to complete the Camino in no more than 23 days, I have produced a schedule based on 20 days. I will try to keep to this, always having that extra three days should I get injured, become overly tired or run into bad weather. It means I can have an easy day or a day off if I need it. That's the plan anyway.

I have most of my equipment now. Ellen Thomson, a fellow WHW Runner and a good friend, has offered me her rucksac for the adventure so that is a great help. There are still odds and sods to get but the one big thing that I have forgotten so far is Travel Insurance. Yes, what a tube! How can you forget that. Well, Pauline usually does that and she hasn't done it this time, so it's her fault. She will just have to sort that out this weekend.

Off to Skye this weekend for a bit of R,R&B i.e Rest, Relaxation and most importantly Beer. Spoken like a true athlete eh.

Tuesday 3 July 2007

Welcome

Hi everyone,
Welcome to the Santiago blog. Three weeks to go but just to show that we are serious about this we thought that you would like to see the hard work that has already gone into preparing for the trek.

We have been planning this for a few months and as part of Mark’s preparation he ran the West Highland Way (95 miles), starting at 1am in Milngavie and finishing, in a stonking time of 24hrs 54mins, at Fort William. The pictures below tell the happy story, beginning, middle and end.



As part of my training I watched mark run the WHW in much the same time as he took to run it. Not bad eh! There is no beginning since, at 1am, I was happily snoring my head of in Crainlarich but the middle and end are indicative of my experience. It's an age thing.



And it would not have been the same had we not been so ably assisted by the one an only Kenny Murray who was not only my companion on the road, providing outstanding music (another Jackson Browne fan) but he also ran the last 34 miles with Mark. What a man!