Tuesday 31 July 2007

To Logroño and beyond

Hi All,
Since there had been little if any sleep at Torres del Rio it was easy enough to start getting ready for the day ahead at 5.00am. Daniel produced coffee and some food (from where remains a secret) and we were off by 5.40am. It was a bit cold at the start but a few hills later we were nicely warm.

It is good walking at that time of the morning, you have the world to yourslef (and a few other walkers). The big moon was still giving us enough light to see the yellow arrows pointing the way to Santiago.

We arrived in Vianna at approx. 8.00am and stopped off for coffee and chirizo bocodillas in a seating area in front of the magnificent Santa Maria church. Again the ever resourceful Daniel produced a primus stove with pot, water, coffee and sugar.

Aside: The man is a marvel. I found out later he was carrying the best part of 20kg. I had to send stuff home to get down to a manageable 13kg.

Having been on the move for over 2 hours it was bliss sitting in front of this wonderful building having breakfast with other peregrinos. It has it´s own form of magic. You pay for it in sore feet but it is a package of memories and friendships that make it all worthwhile.

Leaving Vianna we moved onto Logroño, talking about life and the universe and at one point both of us singing "John Brown´s Body" to the world (without the aid of booze and at 10.00am). The world was not too impressed but we were having a good time.

We arrived in Logroño at about 11.00am, had a beer and then Daniel took his leave to go onto Navarette, a further 13km which I could not face, especially after the experience of the heat on day before. It was already 33C and about to get hotter.

I was sorry to say cheerio to Daniel, who had for a couple of days been a source of encouragement and good conversation.

I finally got to make my way to the main hostel, which unfortuneatly did not open until 2.30. By that time I was nicely roasted and the first thing was shower and then get the washing done. Whilst the clothes were spinning away I went out and about to get information from the local tourist board about what was happening in Logroño and what to see (see me, see adventure, canny whack it).

I recieved a text from Mark stating that his left foot was in a bad way (and boy you should see the hole in the ball of the foot). I called and we decided that the best thing would be for me to join him in Santo Domingo de Calzada that day and we could walk together for a while. Hence back to the hostel, pack up the rucksack (forgot the towel which was still airing in the courtyard) and got the bus onwards. I will be 40km short of the full route but it was more important to be where I am than ask Mark to wait for two days for me to catch up.

Stayed the night in the oldest refugio on the Camino and left this morning late at 6.45am and arrived here at Belorado (20km) at about 1.00pm. Just about to go to the village to get some food (and a towel). About 35C just now but we have a swimming pool to go after shopping. Hope all of you are well.
best,
Arthur

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