Updating 1

Hi Everyone,
I have finally got a PC that works properly and the time to add more than a few comments so I am taking this opportunity to add to mark´s entries.

After joing mark in Santa Domingo de Calzada we moved on the following day to Belorado, a small town. It has however been graced with a new Alberque, situated at the entrance to the town, designed to entice the perogrinos with the delights of a modern youth hostel. In addition to the requisite beds, showers, washing machines/dryers etc, it has a bar, games room, internet connection (off sorts) and a swimming pool. We were enticed but mainly because it was the first place that offered sanctuary from the 38C temperature. Had a walk though the twom which was not overly memorable but the two huge churches (like every other "hole in the wall village") were pretty impressive.

On returning to the albergue, I decided to try the swimming pool but lasted less than a minute. The water was a mere 28C and for me that day that was freezing cold.

Had another "peregrino menu" (Mark just loves peregrino food) which was fine but served by a girl who is audtioning for the Spanish "Ms. Grumpy" national competition. She is going to have a very good chance of winning.

Following morning at 6.00am we moved on to Ages. Passed through S. Juan de Ortega, a point on the map that appears to be a major stopping point. We had decided to bypass before we got there and we were glad to have done so. It had a bar, with rooms above and nothing else. No buildings, strangely no churches. The last Chance Saloon with a barman who was going for the "Mr. Grumpy" competition. I should point out that Ms. & Mr. Grumpy are very unusual. By and large the people who run the bars and albergues are really nice and helpful and do their best to understand our faltering Spanish which with our Scottish accents cannot be easy for them.

Anyway headed on into Ages witha temp of 35C and glad to be there. Nice wee albergue, populated by a French group and a team of young Germans whoch were having a great time on the road to Santiago. The young Germans were more on holiday than on a pilgrimage. They would complete more than the requisite last 100km but they would do so in such a way as to ensure that they would have the time to visit new found friends in Madrid before having to return to Germany. Great life eh! I have vague memories of such an approach to life. Never got to Madrid mark you. They were great company and I loved being in the presence of their enthusiasim for their life.

Part of the folk lore that was poresented that night was of two European women of not insubstantial wealth (whom we had already met)were walking the Camino but were staying in hotels. When they reached S. Juan de Ortega a taxi would pick them up and take them back to Belorado and return them to the pickup point in the morning from whence they would continue their walk to Burgos. They probably did not have to survive on peregrino menu fare either.

Also met a Swedish woman, Marita, who was to join us for a few days before moving on with her own Camino.

Moved from there to Burgos. The walking conditions changed a bit and it was very cool in the morning for which we were very grateful. Passed through Atepurca in which was found the oldest man in Europe, about 1 million years old, give or take a couple of weeks. We could not see him at 6.00am but we would not have been much company at that time anyway. However we know how he feels.

Ground our way up the hill to be presented with a superb view of the plain leading into Burgos. That was the last pleasent view we had until Burgos. Walked approximately 15km via an industrial sprawl. Not pleasent and certainly not inspiring.

Arrived in Burgos a bit worse for wear and a bit disappointed at the albergue accommodation. Decided to move but first the Cathedral. I wish I could upload some of the pictures, it was simply "estupendo" as they say in this part of the world. It was overwhelming in it´s design and grandeur. I wish I had spent nmore time on reading baout it before I left. It would have made such a difference to the visit, which last one whole hour. Lacking any real knowledge of what I was seeing meant that after an hour I was "visited out". However there are plans afoot (especially after seeing Leon Cathedral) to return in the next couple of years to see the sights as a tourist.

Aside:
This one of the less understood apsects of this type of journey, ie walking 20 to 25 miles a day, day after day, leaves one with little energy for the deliberations that such grand architecture deserve. This also applies to the spititual deliberations with which one hopes to engage. Getting washed (you and the clothes), getting fed and getting to bed to get up at 5.00am takes a lot of energy and leaves little for other thoughts. Talking with other people is the best that one can expect to do and thank God for them. The more we talk the more we find that we are the same.

Having decided to move on from Burgos, we did just that. having already put in a fair number of kilometres we decided to limit the afternoon to a further 5 and headed for VillaBilla de Burgos.

Not the best of ideas and the least said the better. The next stop along (2km) was even worse and the two further alberques had been closed. At my insistence we took a taxi to the next stop on the route, Hontanas. It was the quintessential Spanish village dropped from heaven and I was grateful that it existed at all after the disappointment of Villabilla de Burgos.

Aside: That is 65km I will not have walked. Now down to a potential distance of 705km.

Albergue was really nice and the food was also. Quite night and up at 5.30am for the road.
This was the day of my 60th birthday and since I could not spend it with my family I was happy to start it off in such a lovely place.

Arrived in Bodilla del Camino tired and very hot but their was beer and a swimming pool made the difference. Just put my sad old feet in. They needed the help.

Had a birthday surprise from Mark and Marita. They had arranged for the dinner to be held in my honour and it was a surprise to have "Happy Birthday" sang in about 6 or more different European langiages. The meal was superb and if the owners of the albergue at Bodilla del Camino ever get to read this blog please accept my heartfelt thanks for your kindness. However early to bed and early to rise.

Aside:
I can´t remember the last time I did not get up at 5.00am and get on the road for 6.00am at the latest. One of the really impressive things about all of this is the attitude of the people arround you. Everyone is extremely courteous and when needed ready to help anyone to get ready to get on the way. Can you imagine 50 people (sometimes over 100) getting out of bunk beds, trying to arrange their belongings into rucksacks, get water and where possible something to eat all at approximately 5.00am and not one problem. I have not heard one unkind word in over two weeks.

Out of Bodilla in the dark and one wrong turn and we were into a swamp area infested with mosquitos and guess who they just loved. I have welts in place that I did not know existed until I met the mosquitos. Quick retreat and onto Corrion de Las Condes.

There are people waiting to use this free connection so I have to go.

All is well and I am enjoying the trip.

cheers,
Arthur